Ikanzu yo ku mugoroba ni iki? (3)

1.Inyigisho yo guhitamo imyenda yo kwambara nimugoroba: Ibintu by'ingenzi n'isesengura ry'imiterere yo mu rwego rwo hejuru

 

Amahitamo y'imyenda yoamakanzu yo ku mugorobaSi ugukusanya ibikoresho gusa; ni no gusuzuma mu buryo bwimbitse imyitwarire y’ibirori, imiterere y’umubiri, n’imiterere y’ubwiza. Kuva ku mucyo ushyushye wa satin ya silike kugeza ku miterere myiza y’umushumi wakozwe n’intoki, ubwiza bwa buri mwenda uhenze buturuka ku gushaka "ikintu cy’ingenzi" - ibi ni ukubaha uwambaye no gusubiza neza ibirori.

 

(1)Inkomoko y'ingenzi y'imyenda igezweho

 

Imiterere y'amakanzu yo ku mugoroba yo mu rwego rwo hejuru iterwa ahanini n'ibintu bitatu: imiterere y'ibikoresho, uburyo bwo gukora ubukorikori, n'imiterere y'amaso:

1) Ubusanzwe n'ubuke bw'ibikoresho:Imyenda karemano nka silk, cashmere, n'uruhu rudasanzwe, bitewe n'imiterere yabyo myiza ya fibre n'umusaruro muke, mu by'ukuri ifite imiterere yo mu rwego rwo hejuru.

2) Uburyo bugoye bwo kuboha:Urugero, kuboha imyenda ya satin mu buryo buhanitse, kuboha imyenda ya lace n'intoki, n'imitako y'ubudodo ifite imiterere itatu byose bisaba igihe n'imbaraga nyinshi.

3) Imiterere n'ubushyuhe bw'ubuso:Binyuze mu gutunganya umwenda nyuma yo kuwutunganya (nk'uko ukorwa mu buryo bwa calender, gusiga, no kuwusiga), haboneka imiterere yihariye, nk'ubuso bworoshye bwa velvet n'ububengerane bukomeye bwa taffeta.

 

2.Isesengura ry'imyenda ya nimugoroba igezweho

 

1)Uruhererekane rw'amasila: Ikimenyetso cy'ubwiza buhoraho

 

Ubwoko	Ibiranga imiterere	ahantu hakurikizwa	ingingo z'ingenzi z'ibikorwa
Satin y'ubudodo buremereye	Ubuso buroroshye nk'indorerwamo, bufite ubwiza buhanitse kandi buhanitse hamwe n'igitambaro cyiza cyane. Ubukorikori buroroshye kandi bworoshye, bigatuma bukwiriye imyenda ijyanye n'imiterere cyangwa imyenda igera hasi ifite imitako yoroshye.	Ibirori byemewe byo kurya, tapi itukura	Ubucucike bw'umugozi n'uburemere bugomba kugera ku mirongo irenga 130, kandi ubuso bwa satin bigomba kugira ishusho imwe idafite inenge
Georgette	Yoroshye kandi ibonerana, ifite imiterere myiza ifite imigozi Irashya kandi irahindagurika, ikwiriye amajipo afite imiterere cyangwa imiterere igaragara (harimo n'imyenda ikenewe).	Ibirori byo kurya ifunguro rya nimugoroba n'ibirori byo kubyina mu mpeshyi	Ubudodo bufite ubudodo bwinshi kandi bugomba kuvurwa kugira ngo budacika intege nyuma yo kuboha.
ubudodo bwa douppioni	Ubuso bufite imiterere karemano y'isuka, bufite ubwiza budasanzwe kandi buteye ubwoba. Imiterere yayo irakomeye kandi ikwiriye amajipo afite umurongo wa A cyangwa imiterere y'ibishushanyo.	Ibirori byo kurya bifite insanganyamatsiko y'ubuhanzi, ibirori bifite isura ya kera	Komeza utubuto karemano tw'ikinyugunyugu, ufite imiterere ikomeye yakozwe n'intoki. Irinde koza imashini kugira ngo wirinde ko imiterere y'inyuma ihinduka

2) Suede: Kunganya ubukire n'ubushyuhe

● Velvet:

Imiterere y'ibanze:Ubwoya bugufi bunini butuma habaho imiterere idasobanutse, ifite uburyohe bworoshye nk'ubwa velvet. Bufite imiterere isobanutse neza, bigatuma bukoreshwa mu myenda miremire yo ku mugoroba cyangwa mu myambarire ya kera yo mu gihe cy'impeshyi n'imbeho.

Ingingo z'ingenzi zo kumenya umuntu:Icyerekezo cyo hasi kigomba kuba gihamye. Igice cyo hasi cy'inyuma gifite urumuri rwinshi, mu gihe icy'imbere cyo hasi cyoroshye. Ushobora kugikanda witonze ukoresheje intoki zawe. Iyo icyuho cyo hasi kigarutse vuba, kiba ari ikintu cyiza cyane.

● Velour:

Amahitamo ahendutse:Yoroshye kandi yoroheje kurusha velvet, ifite umurundo mugufi kandi irabagirana gato, ikwiriye imiterere ifite ingengo y'imari nto ariko ikurikiranye imiterere ya suede (nk'amakanzu yoroshye).

 

3) Ubudodo n'ubudozi: Ubuhanzi bukozwe mu buryo bw'intoki ni ikintu cy'ingenzi cyane

● Leshi y'Abafaransa:

Inkomoko y'imiterere:Ikozwe mu ipamba cyangwa mu budodo bwa silk, ifite imiterere myiza (nk'indabyo n'imizabibu), nta migozi irekuye ku nkengero, n'igitambaro cy'ibanze kibonerana kidahenze.

Urugero rusanzwe:Umushumi wa Guipure (umushumi ufite imiterere itatu) ukunze gukoreshwa mu gushariza ijosi n'amakanzu yo ku mugoroba. Ugomba guhuzwa n'umwenda kugira ngo wirinde ko ugaragara cyane.

● Imitako n'urutoki:

Itandukaniro mu mikorere:Amasaro akozwe mu ntoki atondekanyije neza, impande z'amasaro ziroroshye nta mashanyarazi, kandi afatanye neza n'umwenda (ibicuruzwa bike bikunze kugwa cyangwa gushwanyaguza uruhu).

Ingero zishoboka:Ku birori nk'ibirori n'udupira bisaba urumuri rwinshi kugira ngo bibe urumuri, ni byiza guhitamo amasaro y'umuceri cyangwa amasaro ya kristu aho guhitamo amasaro ya pulasitiki.

 

4) Igitambaro gikonje:Ishusho y'imiterere y'imiterere

● Taffeta:

Ibiranga:Imiterere yayo irakomeye kandi irabagirana cyane. Ikwiriye imiterere isaba inkunga, nk'amajipo apfutse n'amaboko y'umwamikazi (nk'ishusho ya kera ya Dior "New Look").

Gusana:Ifite imyitwarire yo kubabara iminkanyari, isuku yumutse irakenewe. Irinde gukamura mu gihe cyo kubika.

● Organza:

Imiterere:Ijipo ikomeye ibonerana gato, ishobora gukoreshwa mu gushyira urwego rw'inyuma rw'umugozi w'ijipo kugira ngo ikore "umwuka mwiza" ariko ufite imiterere itatu, kandi akenshi ihuzwa n'imyenda ya silk.

 

3.Itsindaikanzu ya nimugorobaihame ryo guhuza ahantu habera mu guhitamo imyenda

Ubwoko bw'ibirori	Igitambaro gisabwa	Irinde imyenda	Imitekerereze y'imiterere
Ibirori byo kurya ku nshuro ya mbere ya karavati y'umukara	Silika ya satin, velvet, umushumi w'ikoti udoze	Ibikoresho by'ubudodo, ubudodo bw'ubudodo bw'imiti	Uburanga buciriritse, ubwiza bukwiye kwitabwaho kandi wirinde ubwiza bukabije
Tapi itukura n'ibirori byo gutanga ibihembo	Igitambaro cyo kuboha gifite amasaro, irangi riremereye rya satin, n'imiterere y'ibice bya organza	Imyenda iboshye ikunze kwangirika no kwangirika kw'imiti insinga zifite urumuri ruke	Bisaba kugira ingaruka nziza zo kugarura urumuri mu gihe cy'urumuri rwinshi, hamwe n'urumuri rukomeye umwenda n'ubushobozi bwo gushyigikira umugozi munini w'ijipo
Ifunguro rya nimugoroba ryo mu mpeshyi	Georgette, chiffon, umushumi woroheje	Velvet nini, taffeta iboshye cyane	Ihumeka kandi itemba, yirinda gupfundika, umwenda ugomba kugira "umwuka uhumeka"
Ibirori byo kubyina bifite insanganyamatsiko ya Retro	Silika y'ingoro ebyiri, umugozi wa kera n'udupira twa velvet	Igitambaro gishya gitanga urumuri	Shimangira ku buryo ubuhanga n'imiterere y'icyo gihe byari bimeze. Igitambaro kigomba kugira ishusho nk'iy' "inkuru".

4.Inyigisho yo kwirinda imyenda yo mu mugoroba: Ni gute watandukanya ubwiza bw'imyenda?

 

1)Reba uko ibintu bimeze:

Irangi rya satin ryiza cyane:Umucyo umwe, ugaragaza ishusho yoroshye iyo ihinduriwe, aho kugaragaza ishusho nk'iy'indorerwamo irabagirana;

Fibre y'ibinyabutabire idafite akamaro:Irabagirana cyane, nk'iplasitike, urumuri rugaragara ntabwo rungana.

 

2)Uburyo bwo gukoraho:

Silika/Cashmere:Ishyushye kandi nziza iyo uyikozeho, ifite ishusho nziza yo "kwihanganira uruhu";

Ibikoresho by’ibishushanyo mbonera bibi:kora ku ijwi ryumye cyangwa rivanze n'amavuta, "ritera".

 

3)Reba uko ibintu bimeze:

Ubudozi/ubudozi bufite amasaro:Impera z'umugozi w'inyuma ziratunganye, ubucucike bw'umudozi buri hejuru (≥imidomo 8 kuri santimetero), kandi ibice by'amasaro bitondetse neza nta kugorama.

Leshi:Impande zifatanye neza, imiterere y'imitako irangana, nta cyuho cyangwa imyobo.

 

4)Guhagarika ikizamini:

Zamura inguni y'umwenda, maze ubudodo bwiza bwa silk/velvet buzimanikira hasi mu buryo busanzwe, bugahinduka umugozi woroshye.

Igitambaro kidafite ubuziranenge:Igaragaza impande zityaye cyangwa iminkanyari iyo ipfutse kandi idafite amazi meza.

 

5.Imyenda yo mu mugoroba Impuzandengo z'udushya: Iyo ikoranabuhanga rihuye n'umuco gakondo

● Uruvange rw'insinga z'icyuma: 

Kongeramo insinga z'icyuma nziza cyane kuri silk kugira ngo habeho urumuri rugaragara neza, rukwiriye imitako y'ejo hazaza (nk'amakanzu ya Gareth Pugh yahinduwe);

 

● Ibikoresho bibungabunga ibidukikije kandi birambye:

nka Peace Silk (Peace Silk), "ubudodo bw'ubukorano" bukozwe mu ndodo za polyester zasubiwemo, bufite imiterere isa n'iy'imyenda gakondo ariko ikaba irinda ibidukikije;

 

● Igitambaro cyacapwe mu buryo bwa 3D:

Ikora ibishushanyo mbonera bikozwe mu buryo bwa "embossed" binyuze mu ikoranabuhanga ryo kuboha mu buryo bwa "three-dimensional technology", igasimbura ubudozi gakondo kandi ikwiriye amakanzu yo mu rwego rwo hejuru.

 

6.Inzira yo GuhitamoAmakanzu yo ku mugorobay'ubwoko butandukanye bw'umubiri: Ishingiro rya siyansi ryo kugaragaza imbaraga no kwirinda intege nke mu miterere

 

(1) Ishyirwa mu byiciro ry'imibiri n'amahame y'ibanze y'imyambarire

Ishingiro ry'imiterere y'umubiri: Ishingiye ku gipimo cy'imitsi yo ku rutugu, ikibuno n'ikibuno, ikunze kugabanywamo ubwoko butanu bw'ingenzi, hamwe n'uburyo bwo kunoza imiterere y'umubiri no kongera imiterere y'umubiri.

 

(2) Ishusho isa n'iy'urusenda (amatugu magufi n'ikibuno kigari)

 

Ibiranga:Ubugari bw'urutugu ni buke ugereranyije n'umuzenguruko w'ikibuno, ikibuno gito, kandi umubiri wo hasi ugaragara neza.Imbere mu myambaro: Kwagura igice cyo hejuru cy'umubiri no gufunga igice cyo hasi cy'umubiri

 

● Igishushanyo cy'umubiri wo hejuru

Ijosi:Ijosi rya V, ijosi kare cyangwa ijosi ry'umurongo umwe (riremuye ijosi kandi rigatuma amaso y'urutugu arushaho kwaguka), hamwe n'imitako y'urutugu (amaboko abyimbye, imigozi) kugira ngo wongere imiterere y'igice cyo hejuru cy'umubiri.

Igitambaro:Imitako y'amabara, ubudodo cyangwa imyenda irabagirana (satin, velvet) kugira ngo ikomeze kureba no kwirinda ibikoresho biboshye cyane.

 

● Igishushanyo mbonera cy'umubiri wo hasi

Umugongo w'ijipo:Ijipo ifite umurongo ugororotse, ijipo y'umutaka (umugongo w'ijipo ukwirakwira uhereye mu rukenyerero ugana hasi), hitamo taffeta cyangwa osmanthus nziza, irinde imitako ifatanye mu kibuno cyangwa imirizo ikomeye.

Ibisobanuro birambuye:Umugozi w'ijipo ugomba kwirinda imitako igoye. Igishushanyo mbonera cy'ikibuno kirekire (gifite umukandara) gishobora gukoreshwa mu kunoza hagati y'uburemere no kugabanya ingano y'ikibuno.

Ubwirinzi bw'inkuba:Ifite amaboko adafite, hejuru ifashe neza, imitako y'inyuma igaragara ku mugongo (irushaho kuremerera igice cyo hasi cy'umubiri).

 

(3) Ishusho isa n'ipapayi (ikibuno n'inda byizengurutse)

 

Ibiranga:Funga amatugu n'ikibuno, umuzenguruko w'ikibuno > cm 90, kandi ushyire ibinure byinshi mu kibuno no mu nda

 

● Igishushanyo cya zahabu:

1) Imbere y'ingoma:Ikibuno gipfutse munsi y'igituza + ijipo nini, ifite igitambaro cyo kwambara (silk georgetic, chiffon ifite imigozi) gitwikiriye ikibuno n'inda, mu gihe kigaragaza umurongo w'igituza.

 

2)Ijosi:

Ijosi rya V ryimbitse n'ijosi ry'ubwato (ijosi ry'umurongo umwe) birekura igice cyo hejuru cy'umubiri. Irinde ijosi rirerire n'ijosi ryizengurutse (kanda ikigereranyo cy'ijosi).

 

● Ibizira ku myenda:

Satin ikomeye (igaragaza kubyimba), ibikoresho bipfutse (bigaragaza inyama nyinshi). Imyenda idakomeye cyangwa ipfutse ni yo ikunda gukoreshwa.

 

● Uburyo bwo gushariza:

Shyiramo indabyo z'ibipimo bitatu cyangwa imitako ifite amasaro ku gice cyo hejuru cy'umubiri (ijosi, ku bitugu) kugira ngo uhindure ibitekerezo byawe ku rukenyerero no ku nda. Irinde imitako iyo ari yo yose ku rukenyerero.

 

(4)Ishusho imeze nk'iy'ikirahure (ifite imikondo itandukanye): Shyira imbaraga ku bushobozi bwawe kandi wongere imbaraga ku ishusho imeze nk'iy'ikirahure

 

Ibiranga:Umuzenguruko w'urutugu ≈ umuzenguruko w'ikibuno, ikibuno gito, gikwiriye kwerekana imikondo

 

● Uburyo bwiza cyane:

1) Ikanzu yo mu gituza: Yakozwe mu mwenda wa silk satin cyangwa umwenda uboshye ufatana neza, ugaragaza umurongo w'ikibuno n'umurongo w'ikibuno, kandi ifite imiterere miremire yo kongeramo ubushobozi bwo gukora neza.

2) Ijipo ya Mermaid Cut:Fata ikibuno hanyuma ukireke munsi y'amavi. Umugozi w'ijipo ufatanye na organza cyangwa umugozi kugira ngo ugaragaze umugozi w'ikirahure cy'amasaha.

 

● Igishushanyo mbonera girambuye:

Shyiramo umukandara muto cyangwa ibintu bifite ububobere mu rukenyerero kugira ngo ukomeze urukenyerero. Igice cyo hejuru cy'umubiri gishobora gutorwa mu buryo butagira umugongo, mu buryo bwa halter cyangwa mu buryo bwa V-ijosi rinini kugira ngo ingano y'umubiri wo hasi irusheho kuringanizwa.

 

● Ubwirinzi bw'inkuba:

Ijipo irekuye igororotse, ijipo ifite imiterere myinshi (ihisha akarusho k'imirongo).

 

(5)Imiterere y'umubiri ifite impande enye (ifite ibipimo bya hafi): Kora ibishushanyo mbonera hanyuma wongereho ibice

 

Ibiranga:Itandukaniro mu gipimo cy'urutugu, ikibuno n'ikibuno ni munsi ya cm 15, kandi imiterere y'umubiri iragororotse.

 

● Uburyo bwo gutema:

Igishushanyo mbonera cy'ikibuno gikozwe mu gishishwa:Ifite icyuma gishyigikira amagufwa y’ifi cyangwa ikibuno gifite imigozi, gitandukanya igice cyo hejuru n’icyo hasi cy’umubiri mu buryo bw’ubukorano. Gifatanye n’itsinda ry’ibice bibiri by’impimbano (nk’ikoti ryo hejuru + ijipo) kugira ngo habeho itandukanyirizo ry’amaso.

Amahitamo y'umuheto w'ijipo:Ijipo y'umuhondo ifite umurongo wa A, ijipo y'umuhondo ifite amashami menshi kugira ngo yongere uburebure bw'ikibuno, umwenda wa taffeta cyangwa organza, irinde amajipo y'ikaramu afatanye neza.

Dibintu birengera ibidukikije:Ikibuno gishobora gushirwaho imitako, umukandara cyangwa imigozi igabanya amabara kugira ngo irusheho kugaragara neza. Igice cyo hejuru cy'umubiri gishobora gushirwamo imigozi cyangwa amaboko apfundikiye kugira ngo cyongere imiterere y'impande eshatu.

 

(6)Ishusho y'impandeshatu ihindukiye (amatugu manini n'ikibuno gito): Kuringaniza ibice byo hejuru n'ibyo hasi hanyuma wongere umubiri wo hasi

 

Ibiranga:Umuzenguruko w'urutugu > umuzenguruko w'ikibuno, igice cyo hejuru cy'umubiri gifite ishusho ikomeye, mu gihe igice cyo hasi cy'umubiri gifite umubyimba muto cyane

 

 

● Gutunganya igice cyo hejuru cy'umubiri

Igishushanyo cy'umurongo w'urutugu:Shyira amaboko y'urutugu ku rutugu, asanzwe cyangwa asanzwe ku rutugu rumwe (kugira ngo ugabanye ubugari bw'urutugu), irinde amaboko y'urutugu afite ipfundo n'amaboko afite ipfundo; Hitamo velvet idakomeye cyangwa umwenda uboshye kugira ngo ugabanye kubyimba.

 

● Kongera umubiri wo hasi

Umugongo w'ijipo:Ijipo y'umurizo w'ifi (ifite ubugari munsi y'ikibuno), ijipo nini ifite ijipo. Koresha satin irabagirana cyangwa ongeramo agatambaro ko mu gituza kugira ngo wongere ubwinshi. Umugongo ushobora gushushanywa n'udupira cyangwa imitako.

 

Umurongo w'ikibuno:Imiterere y'ikibuno kuva hagati kugeza hejuru, hakoreshejwe umukandara kugira ngo ugabanye ingano y'umubiri wo hejuru no kuringaniza ubugari bw'urutugu.

 

(7)Uburyo bwihariye bwo guhangana n'imiterere y'umubiri

1)Imiterere y'umubiri wose (BMI > 24)

Amahitamo y'imyenda:Satin iremereye ya silike, velvet (ifite agatambaro ko guhisha inyama nyinshi), amabara yijimye (ubururu buvanze n'amazi, Burgundy) bifite imiterere irushijeho kuba myiza kurusha umukara gusa, kandi birinda ahantu hanini hakozwe inkweto za sequin.

Ingingo z'ingenzi z'uburyo bwo kwambara: Gufata neza cyane + Empire waistline, hitamo amaboko atatu kuri ane afite amaboko maremare (apfuka amaboko), kandi wirinde imiterere myinshi y'ijipo.

 

2)Igishushanyo gito (uburebure < 160cm)

Kugenzura uburebure:Ikanzu ngufi ifite uburebure bwa cm 3-5 hejuru y'ivi (nk'ikanzu ya Cocktail), cyangwa uburebure bwo hasi buvanze n'inkweto ndende + igishushanyo cy'imbere ngufi n'inyuma ndende (kugira ngo umuntu asa n'ureba muremure nta mpungenge).

 

Uburyo bwo kutavuga rumwe n'amategeko:Umurizo muremure cyane, umugongo w'ijipo ugoye. Imirongo ihagaze, ijosi rya V n'ibindi bintu bihagaze ni byo bikundwa.

 

3)Inyubako nini kandi ndende (uburebure > 175cm)

Kongera imiterere y'urumuri (Aura):Umurizo muremure cyane, imiterere y'ibitugu bigari (nk'imyambaro ya Givenchy haute couture), ifatanye n'imirongo miremire cyangwa ibintu bidafite umugongo, kandi umwenda ni satin nini cyangwa ubudodo bubiri (bushyigikira inkingi).

 

(8)Inyigisho Rusange yo Kwirinda Ingorane: Ibirombe byo mu butaka 90% by'abantu bazagwamo

 

● Ubudasa hagati y'igitambaro n'imiterere y'umubiri:

Ku muntu ubyibushye, kwambara taffeta ikomeye bituma umuntu asa n'ufite ubwinshi, mu gihe ku muntu udafite uburebure, kwambara chiffon ipfundikiye bituma umuntu asa n'ufite ubwiza. Ipfundo ry'umwenda rigomba gutoranywa hashingiwe ku ishusho.

 

● Imiterere y'urukenyerero ntabwo ari yo:

Ku bafite ishusho y'amapera, hitamo ikibuno kirekire; ku bafite ishusho y'amapera, hitamo igituza n'ikibuno cyo hasi; ku bafite ishusho y'urukiramende, hitamo ikibuno kirekire. Imiterere idakwiye y'ikibuno izarushaho kuba myiza (urugero, kwambara ikibuno gisa n'amapera gifite ikibuno gito bizagaragaza ikibuno n'inda).

 

● Gukoresha nabi ibintu by'imitako:

Imitako y'amasaro/imitako igomba kuba igizwe n'uduce 1-2 (umugongo w'ijosi cyangwa umugozi w'ijipo), kandi imitako igoye nk'indabyo z'ibice bitatu igomba kwirindwa ahantu hari inenge ku mubiri (nk'ikibuno kinini).

 

Ihame ry'ingenzi: Hindura ikanzu ibe "itera imbaraga ry'imiterere y'umubiri"

Ishingiro ryo guhitamo ikanzu yo ku mugoroba si "guhisha inenge", ahubwo ni uguhindura ishusho mu buryo bugezweho binyuze mu gukata - uburyo bworoshye bw'ishusho y'amapera, ubwiza bw'ishusho y'amapera, ubwiza bw'ishusho y'ikirahuri, n'ubuziranenge bw'urukiramende byose bishobora kugaragara binyuze mu miterere nyayo. Mu gihe ugerageza imyenda, witondere imikorere y'imyenda (nk'uko umugozi w'ijipo umeze iyo ugenda), kandi ushyire imbere imideli yakozwe ku giti cyawe cyangwa isanzwe kugira ngo wirinde ko ibikoresho bihendutse byo mu myambarire byihuse byangiza imiterere.