Imyenda ikunze gukoreshwaumwenda wo kubohani umugozi mu buryo bwa shuttle, aho ubudodo bukorwa binyuze mu buryo bwa longitude na latitude. Imiterere yabwo muri rusange ifite ibyiciro bitatu by'ubudodo burambuye, butwill na satin, hamwe n'imiterere yabwo ihinduka (mu bihe bya none, bitewe n'ikoreshwa ry'umugozi udafite shuttle, kuboha imyenda nk'iyo ntibikoresha imiterere ya shuttle, ariko umwenda uracyari shuttle wo kuboha). Kuva ku bigize umwenda w'ipamba, umwenda wa hariri, umwenda w'ubwoya, umwenda w'ilino, umwenda w'ibinyabutabire n'imyenda yabyo ivanze n'iboshye, ikoreshwa ry'imyenda iboshye mu myenda yaba iri mu bwoko butandukanye cyangwa mu bwinshi bw'umusaruro. Bitewe n'itandukaniro mu buryo, ikoranabuhanga, imiterere n'ibindi bintu, hari itandukaniro rikomeye mu buryo bwo gutunganya no gutunganya imyenda. Ibi bikurikira ni ubumenyi bw'ibanze mu gutunganya imyenda muri rusange.
(1) Uburyo bwo gukora imyenda iboshye
Ibikoresho byo hejuru bishyirwa mu ikoranabuhanga ryo kugenzura uruganda, gukata no kudoda akabuto k'imfunguzo, gupakira imyenda cyangwa kuyishyira mu bubiko.
Nyuma y’uko umwenda winjijwe mu ruganda, umubare w’ingano n’isura n’ubwiza bw’imbere bigomba kugenzurwa. Iyo byujuje ibisabwa mu musaruro ni byo bigomba gushyirwa mu bikorwa. Mbere yo gukora ku bwinshi, hagomba kubanza gukorwa itegurwa rya tekiniki, harimo no gukora urupapuro rwo gutunganya, isahani y’icyitegererezo n’ikorwa ry’imyenda y’icyitegererezo. Imyenda y’icyitegererezo ishobora kwinjira mu gikorwa gikurikira nyuma yo kwemezwa n’umukiriya. Imyenda icibwa ikadodwa mu bicuruzwa byarangije kurangira. Nyuma y’uko imyenda imwe n’imwe ikozwe mu bikoresho byarangije kurangira, hakurikijwe ibisabwa byihariye mu gikorwa, igomba gutondekwa no gutunganywa, nko kumesa imyenda, kumesa umucanga w’imyenda, gutunganya ingaruka zo kuzunguruka, nibindi, hanyuma, binyuze mu nzira y’inyongera no kurangiza, hanyuma igapfunyikwa ikabikwa nyuma yo kunyura mu igenzura.
(2) Intego n'ibisabwa mu igenzura ry'imyenda
Ubwiza bw'imyenda myiza ni igice cy'ingenzi mu kugenzura ubuziranenge bw'ibicuruzwa byarangiye. Igenzura n'igenwa ry'imyenda ije bishobora kongera ubuziranenge bw'imyenda.
Igenzura ry'imyenda rikubiyemo ubwiza bw'isura n'ubwiza bw'imbere. Isura nyamukuru y'imyenda ni ukureba niba hari ibyangiritse, ibizinga, inenge zo kuboha, itandukaniro ry'amabara n'ibindi. Imyenda yo kumesa umucanga igomba kandi kwitondera niba hari umuhanda w'umucanga, ifu idafunze, imyanya n'izindi nenge zo kumesa umucanga. Nenge zigira ingaruka ku isura zigomba gushyirwaho ibimenyetso mu igenzura kandi zikirindwe mu gihe cyo gukata.
Ubwiza bw'imbere bw'umwenda bukubiyemo ahanini guhindagurika, kwihuta kw'amabara n'uburemere (m, ounce) bw'ibice bitatu. Mu gihe cyo gusuzuma, ingero z'ubwoko butandukanye n'amabara atandukanye zigomba gucibwa kugira ngo zipimwe kugira ngo hamenyekane ukuri kw'amakuru.
Muri icyo gihe, ibikoresho by’inyongera byinjira mu ruganda nabyo bigomba gusuzumwa, nko kugabanuka k’umukandara wa elastic, uburyo umugozi ufatana neza, uburyo zipper igenda neza, nibindi. Ibikoresho by’inyongera bitashoboye kuzuza ibisabwa ntibizashyirwa mu bikorwa.
(3) Imikorere y'ingenzi y'itegurwa rya tekiniki
Mbere yo gukora ibintu byinshi, abakozi ba tekiniki bagomba kubanza gukora akazi keza ko gutegura ibintu mu buryo bwa tekiniki mbere yo gukora ibintu byinshi. Gutegura ibintu mu buryo bwa tekiniki birimo ibintu bitatu: urupapuro rwo gutunganya ibintu, gukora icyitegererezo cy'impapuro n'icyitegererezo cyo gukora imyenda. Gutegura ibintu mu buryo bwa tekiniki ni uburyo bw'ingenzi bwo kwemeza ko umusaruro ukorwa neza kandi umusaruro wa nyuma ugahura n'ibyo abakiriya bakeneye.
Urupapuro rw'igenamigambi ni inyandiko iyobora mu gutunganya imyenda. Itanga ibisabwa birambuye ku bipimo, kudoda, gutera ipasi, kurangiza no gupakira, nibindi, kandi ikanasobanura neza ibisobanuro nko gushyira hamwe ibikoresho by'imyenda n'ubucucike bw'imirongo yo kudoda, reba Imbonerahamwe ya 1-1. Ibikorwa byose mu gutunganya imyenda bigomba gukorwa neza hakurikijwe ibisabwa n'urupapuro rw'igenamigambi.
Gutanga ingero bisaba ingano nyayo n'ibipimo byuzuye. Imirongo y'ibice bireba ihura neza. Nimero y'imyenda, igice, ibipimo, icyerekezo cy'ingufuri za silk n'ibisabwa mu bwiza bigomba gushyirwaho ikimenyetso kuri icyitegererezo, kandi ikimenyetso cy'icyitegererezo gikwiye gushyirwaho ikimenyetso aho gishyirwa.
Nyuma yo kurangiza urupapuro rw'ibikorwa n'ingero, hashobora gukorwa ibishushanyo mbonera by'imyenda mito, kandi ikinyuranyo gishobora gukosorwa ku gihe hakurikijwe ibyo abakiriya bakeneye n'uburyo bikorwamo, kandi ingorane z'uburyo bikorwamo zigakemuka, kugira ngo imikorere y'ubwinshi bw'ibicuruzwa ishobore gukorwa neza. Ingero yabaye imwe mu ngingo z'ingenzi zo kugenzura nyuma y'umukiriya.
(4) Ibisabwa mu buryo bwo guca
Mbere yo gukata, tugomba gushushanya igishushanyo cyo gusohora umuriro dukurikije icyitegererezo. "Byuzuye, bifite ishingiro kandi bizigama" ni ryo hame ry'ibanze ryo gusohora umuriro. Ibisabwa by'ingenzi mu gikorwa cyo gukata ni ibi bikurikira:
(1) Kura ingano y'ibicuruzwa mu gihe cyo kubikurura, kandi witondere neza kugira ngo wirinde inenge.
(2) Ku myenda itandukanye yogejwe irangi cyangwa umucanga, igomba gucibwamo ibice kugira ngo hirindwe ko habaho itandukaniro ry'amabara ku myenda imwe. Kugira ngo habeho itandukaniro ry'amabara mu mwenda ku ibara ritandukanye risohoka.
(3) Mu gihe usohora ibikoresho, witondere niba imigozi y'ubudodo bw'umwenda n'icyerekezo cy'imigozi y'umwenda byujuje ibisabwa mu buryo. Ku mwenda wa velvet (nk'umwenda wa velvet, velvet, corduroy, nibindi), ibikoresho ntibigomba gusukurwa inyuma, bitabaye ibyo uburebure bw'ibara ry'umwenda buzahinduka.
(4) Ku mwenda ukozwe mu gitambaro, tugomba kwita ku buryo imigozi ihagaze n'aho iherereye muri buri cyiciro, kugira ngo turebe ko imigozi iri ku mwenda ihuye kandi ingana.
(5) Gukata bisaba gukata neza, n'imirongo igororotse kandi yoroshye. Aho inzira inyura ntabwo hagomba kuba hanini cyane, kandi urwego rwo hejuru n'urwo hasi rw'umwenda ntirurenge cyane.
(6) Kata icyuma ukurikije ikimenyetso cy'icyitegererezo.
(7) Hagomba kwitabwaho kugira ngo hatazagira ingaruka ku isura y'umwenda mu gihe ukoresha ikimenyetso cy'umwobo w'inyundo. Nyuma yo gukata, umubare n'igenzura ry'ibinini bigomba kubarwa, kandi bigashyirwa hamwe hakurikijwe ibisabwa ku myenda, hamwe na nimero yo kwemeza itike, ibice byayo n'ibipimo byayo.
(5) Kudoda no kudoda ni cyo gikorwa cy'ingenzi cyogutunganya imyendaKudoda imyenda bishobora kugabanywamo kudoda hakoreshejwe imashini no kudoda hakoreshejwe intoki hakurikijwe imiterere n'uburyo bw'ubukorikori. Mu kudoda no gutunganya ibikorwa byo gushyira mu bikorwa imikorere.
Gukoresha umugozi wo kole mu gutunganya imyenda ni ibintu bikunze kugaragara, uruhare rwawo ni ukoroshya uburyo bwo kudoda, gutuma imyenda imera neza, gukumira kwangirika no gucika iminkanyari, no kugira uruhare runaka mu kwerekana imyenda. Ubwoko bw'imyenda idafunze, imyenda ifunze, imyenda yo kuboha nk'umwenda w'ibanze, ikoreshwa ry'umugozi wo kole rigomba gutoranywa hakurikijwe umwenda n'ibice byawo, no gusobanukirwa neza igihe, ubushyuhe n'umuvuduko, kugira ngo haboneke umusaruro mwiza.
Mu gutunganya imyenda iboshye, imidozi ihuzwa hakurikijwe itegeko runaka kugira ngo ikore umugozi ukomeye kandi mwiza.
Icyitonderwa gishobora kugabanywa mu moko ane akurikira:
1. Imirongo y'imishumi Imirongo y'imishumi ikozwe mu migozi imwe cyangwa ebyiri. Umugozi umwe. Akamaro kayo ni uko ingano y'imirongo ikoreshwa mu burebure bw'igice ari nto, ariko ikibi ni uko umugozi wo gufunga impande usohoka iyo umurongo w'umugozi ucitse. Umugozi w'imigozi ibiri witwa umugozi w'imishumi ibiri, ukozwe mu mugozi w'urushinge n'umugozi, uburimbane n'imbaraga byawo ni byiza kuruta umugozi wo gufunga, kandi ntabwo byoroshye gutatanya icyarimwe. Imirongo y'imishumi imwe ikunze gukoreshwa mu mugongo w'ikoti, umugozi w'ipantaro, umutwe w'ikoti ry'ikoti, nibindi. Imirongo y'imishumi ibiri ikunze gukoreshwa mu mugozi w'umushongi, umugozi w'inyuma n'umugozi wo ku ruhande rw'ipantaro, umukandara woroshye n'ibindi bice bifite imbaraga nyinshi kandi zikomeye.
2. Umurongo w'umugozi, uzwi kandi nka "shuttle suture trace", uhujwe n'imigozi ibiri iri mu mugozi. Impera zombi z'umugozi zifite imiterere imwe, kandi kurambura no guhindagurika kwazo ntibihagije, ariko umurongo wo hejuru n'uwo hasi urabegereye. Umurongo w'umugozi ufunguye ni wo murongo ukunze gukoreshwa cyane mu gupfunyika ibice bibiri by'umugozi. Nk'inkombe zo kudoda, kudoda buhoro buhoro, gupfunyika mu gikapu n'ibindi.
3. Inzira yo gupfunyikamo umugozi ni umugozi ushyirwa ku nkengero z'umugozi hakoreshejwe urukurikirane rw'imigozi. Dukurikije umubare w'imigozi yo gupfunyikamo umugozi (umugozi umwe wo gupfunyikamo umugozi, umugozi w'imigozi ibiri… Umugozi w'imigozi itandatu wo gupfunyikamo umugozi). Ikiranga ni ugukora impande z'ibikoresho byo kudoda zipfunyitse, bigira uruhare mu gukumira impande z'umwenda. Iyo umugozi urambuwe, hashobora kubaho urwego runaka rwo kwimura hagati y'umurongo w'ubuso n'umurongo wo hasi, bityo umugozi ukaba mwiza kurushaho, bityo ukoreshwa cyane mu nkengero z'umwenda. Imigozi itatu n'imigozi ine ni yo myenda iboshywe ikoreshwa cyane. Imigozi itanu n'imigozi itandatu, izwi kandi nka "imigozi ivanze", igizwe n'umugozi w'imigozi ibiri ufite imigozi itatu cyangwa ine. Ikiranga cyayo kinini ni imbaraga nini, zishobora guhuzwa no gupfunyika icyarimwe, kugira ngo hongerwe ubwinshi bw'imigozi yo kudoda no kunoza umusaruro w'umudozi.
4. Inyuguti y'umushongi ikozwe mu nsinga zirenze ebyiri n'umugozi ugoramye unyura hagati yazo, rimwe na rimwe hongerwamo umugozi umwe cyangwa ibiri yo gushushanya imbere. Ibiranga umurongo w'umushongi ni bikomeye, ufata neza, umushongi woroshye, rimwe na rimwe (nk'umushongi wo kudoda) nabyo bishobora kugira uruhare mu gukumira impande z'umwenda.
Uburyo bwo kudoda bw'ibanze bugaragara ku Ishusho ya 1-13. Uretse kudoda kw'ibanze, hari n'uburyo bwo gutunganya nko gupfunyika no kudoda imyenda hakurikijwe ibisabwa mu buryo n'ikoranabuhanga. Guhitamo uburyo bwo kudoda imyenda, ubudodo n'ubucucike bw'urushinge mu kudoda imyenda bigomba kwita ku bisabwa ku myenda n'uburyo ikorwamo.
Inshinge zishobora gushyirwa mu byiciro hakurikijwe "ubwoko n'umubare". Dukurikije imiterere, imidozi ishobora kugabanywamo ubwoko bwa S, J, B, U, Y, bihuye n'imyenda itandukanye, hakurikijwe ubwoko bw'urushinge bukwiye.
Ubunini bw'imidomo ikoreshwa mu Bushinwa bugaragazwa n'umubare, kandi urwego rw'ubunini rurushaho kuba runini uko umubare wiyongera. Imidomo ikoreshwa mu gutunganya imyenda muri rusange iri hagati ya 7 na 18, kandi imyenda itandukanye ikoresha imidomo itandukanye y'ubunini butandukanye.
Muri rusange, guhitamo imitako bigomba kuba imiterere n'ibara bimwe n'imyenda y'imyenda (cyane cyane iyo ishushanyijeho imitako). Imitako muri rusange irimo imitako ya silk, imitako ya ipamba, imitako ya ipamba / polyester, imitako ya polyester, nibindi. Mu gihe duhitamo imitako, tugomba kandi kwita ku bwiza bw'imitako, nko gukomera kw'amabara, kugabanuka, gukomera kw'imitako n'ibindi. Imitako isanzwe igomba gukoreshwa ku myenda yose.
Ubucucike bw'urushinge ni ubucucike bw'ikirenge cy'urushinge, bugaragazwa n'umubare w'imigozi iri muri cm 3 ku buso bw'igitambaro, kandi bushobora no kugaragazwa n'umubare w'utwenge tw'igitambaro mu mwenda wa cm 3. Ubucucike bw'urushinge busanzwe mu gutunganya imyenda iboshye.
Kudoda imyenda muri rusange bisaba ko igaragara neza kandi nziza, ntishobora kugaragara nk'aho idahuje, igoramye, ivamo amazi, umushono utari wo n'ibindi bintu. Mu kudoda, tugomba kwita ku miterere y'imigozi, n'uburyo ingana. Umushono ugomba kuba umwe kandi ugororotse, woroshye kandi woroshye; ubuso bw'imyenda bugororotse nta minkanyari cyangwa ngo bupfunyike gato; umushono uri muzima, nta murongo wacitse, umurongo ureremba, kandi ibice by'ingenzi nk'umutwe w'ijosi ntibigomba gufungwa.
(6) umushumi w'inzara z'imfunguzo
Umwobo wo gufunga n'umugozi w'inzara mu myenda ubusanzwe bikorwa n'imashini. Umugozi w'amaso ugabanyijemo umwobo urambuye n'umwobo w'amaso bitewe n'imiterere yawo, uzwi cyane nka umwobo wo gusinzira n'umwobo w'amaso y'incuke.
Amaso agororotse akoreshwa cyane mu mashati, amajipo, amapantalo n'ibindi bikoresho by'imyenda mito.
Amaso ya Phoenix akoreshwa cyane mu makoti, amakoti n'indi myenda minini ku bwoko bw'amakoti.
Umwobo wo gufunga ugomba kwitondera ingingo zikurikira:
(1) Niba ahantu ha cingulate ari ho hameze neza.
(2) Niba ingano y'ijisho ry'akabuto ihuye n'ingano n'ubugari bw'akabuto.
(3) Niba umwobo w'ubuto waciwe neza.
(4) kugira imyenda irambuye (ikora neza) cyangwa imyenda mito cyane, kugira ngo harebwe ikoreshwa ry'umwobo wo gufunga mu gice cy'imbere cy'igitambaro gikomeza. Ubudozi bw'akabuto bugomba kuba bujyanye n'aho agace k'inyuma gaherereye, bitabaye ibyo akabuto ntikazatuma akabuto gahinduka cyangwa kagorama. Hagomba kandi kwitabwaho niba ingano n'imbaraga by'umurongo w'ifatizo bihagije kugira ngo akabuto kadagwa, kandi niba umubare w'imyenda y'igitambaro kinini uhagije.
Abantu (barindwi) bashyushye bakunze gukoresha "ingingo eshatu badoda ingingo ndwi zishyushye" kugira ngo bahindure cyane ubushyuhe ni inzira y'ingenzi mu gutunganya imyenda.
Hari imirimo itatu y'ingenzi yo gutera ipasi:
(1) Kuraho iminkanyari y'imyenda ukoresheje imashini yo kuyitera no kuyitera ipasi, hanyuma uvaneho iminkanyari.
(2) Nyuma yo gukoresha uburyo bushyushye bwo gutunganya imyenda, garagaza ko imeze nk'aho irambuye, ifite imigozi, kandi igororotse.
(3) Koresha ubuhanga bwo "gusubiza" no "gukurura" gutera ipasi kugira ngo uhindure neza uburyo fibre igabanuka n'ubucucike n'icyerekezo cy'imitako y'imyenda, ushushanye imiterere y'imyenda mu mpande eshatu, kugira ngo ihuze n'ibisabwa ku miterere y'umubiri w'umuntu n'imikorere ye, kugira ngo imyenda igere ku ntego yo kugaragara neza no kwambara neza.
Ibintu bine by'ingenzi bigira ingaruka ku ipasi y'imyenda ni: ubushyuhe, ubushuhe, igitutu n'igihe. Ubushyuhe bwo gutera ipasi ni cyo kintu cy'ingenzi bigira ingaruka ku ipasi. Gufata ubushyuhe bwo gutera ipasi y'imyenda itandukanye ni cyo kibazo cy'ingenzi cyo gupfuka. Ubushyuhe bwo gutera ipasi ni buke cyane ku buryo budashobora kugera ku ipasi; ubushyuhe bwo gutera ipasi buzangiza.
Ubushyuhe bwo gutera ipasi bw'ubwoko bwose bwa fibre, ndetse no mu gihe cyo gukoranaho, umuvuduko wo kugenda, igitutu cyo gutera ipasi, byaba ibiryamirwa, ubunini bw'ibiryamirwa n'ubushuhe bifite ibintu bitandukanye.
Ibintu bikurikira bigomba kwirindwa mu gihe cyo gutera ipasi:
(1) Aurora no gushya ku mwambaro.
(2) Ubuso bw'imyenda bwasize udusimba duto n'iminkanyari n'ibindi bisebe bishyushye.
(3) Hari ibice bisohoka n'ibishyushye.
(8) Igenzura ry'imyenda
Igenzura ry'imyenda rigomba kunyura mu gikorwa cyose cyo kuyitunganya nko gukata, kudoda, gufunga imfunguzo, kurangiza no gutera ipasi. Mbere yo gupakira no kubika, ibicuruzwa byarangiye bigomba no gusuzumwa neza kugira ngo harebwe ubuziranenge bw'imyenda.
Ibikubiye mu igenzura ry’ibicuruzwa byarangiye birimo:
(1) Niba imiterere ari imwe n'icyitegererezo cyo kwemeza.
(2) Niba ingano n'ibipimo byujuje ibisabwa ku rupapuro rw'ibikorwa n'imyenda y'icyitegererezo.
(3) Niba umushongi ari wo ukwiye, kandi niba umudozi ari imyenda myiza kandi irambuye.
(4) imyenda y'umwenda urimo umurongo reba niba iyo myenda ari yo.
(5) niba umugozi w'ubudodo bw'umwenda ari wo, niba nta nenge ziri ku mwenda, niba hari amavuta.
(6) Niba hari ikibazo cy'itandukaniro ry'amabara mu myenda imwe.
(7) Niba gutera ipasi ari byiza.
(8) Niba igice cyo gufatanya gikomeye, kandi niba hari ikintu cyinjiramo kole.
(9) Niba umutwe w'insinga warasanwe.
(10) Niba ibikoresho by'imyenda byuzuye.
(11) Niba ikimenyetso cy'ingano, ikimenyetso cyo kumesa n'ikirango cy'ubucuruzi kiri ku myenda bihuye n'ibirimo ibicuruzwa, kandi niba aho byashyizwe ari heza.
(12) Niba imiterere rusange y'imyenda ari myiza.
(13) Niba ipaki yujuje ibisabwa.
(9) Gupakira no kubika
Uburyo imyenda ipfunyikwamo bushobora kugabanywamo ubwoko bubiri bwo kumanika no gupakira, muri rusange bugabanywamo uburyo bwo gupakira imbere n'uburyo bwo gupakira hanze.
Gupfunyika imbere bivuga umwenda umwe cyangwa myinshi mu gikapu cya rubber. Nimero yo kwishyura n'ingano y'imyenda bigomba kuba bihuye n'ibyanditse ku gikapu cya rubber, kandi ipaki igomba kuba yoroshye kandi nziza. Imyenda imwe n'imwe yihariye igomba gupfunyika mu buryo bwihariye, nko kwambara imyenda igoramye kugira ngo ipfunyike mu buryo bwo gupfunyika, kugira ngo ikomeze kuba myiza.
Ipaki yo hanze ikunze gushyirwa mu makarito, hakurikijwe ibyo abakiriya bakeneye cyangwa amabwiriza y'urupapuro rw'amabwiriza. Ifishi yo gupakira muri rusange ni kode y'amabara atandukanye, kode y'amabara amwe, kode y'amabara amwe, kode y'amabara atandukanye ubwoko bune. Mu gihe cyo gupakira, tugomba kwita ku bwinshi bwuzuye n'ibara n'ingano nyabyo bihuriramo. Shyira akamenyetso k'agasanduku ku gasanduku ko hanze, ukerekana umukiriya, aho ibicuruzwa bijyanwa, inomero y'agasanduku, ingano, aho byaturutse, nibindi, kandi ibikubiye muri kode bihuye n'ibicuruzwa nyabyo.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Gicurasi-25-2024
