Imyenda ikoreshwakuboha imyendani umwenda muburyo bwa shitingi, aho ubudodo bukozwe binyuze muburambe bwuburebure nuburinganire. Ishirahamwe ryarwo muri rusangi rirafise ibice bitatu biringaniye, twill na satin, hamwe nishirahamwe ryabo rihinduka (mugihe ciki gihe, kubera ikoreshwa ryimyenda itagira shitingi, kuboha imyenda nkiyi ntibikoresha uburyo bwa shitingi, ariko umwenda uracyariho kuboha ingendo). Uhereye ku bice by'imyenda y'ipamba, umwenda w'ubudodo, umwenda w'ubwoya, umwenda w'igitare, imyenda ya fibre ya chimique hamwe n'ibitambaro byabo bivanze kandi bikozwe, gukoresha imyenda iboshywe mu myenda yaba itandukanye cyangwa iyobowe n'ubwinshi bw'umusaruro. Bitewe nuburyo butandukanye muburyo, ikoranabuhanga, imiterere nibindi bintu, hariho itandukaniro rikomeye mubikorwa byo gutunganya nuburyo bwo gutunganya. Ibikurikira nubumenyi bwibanze bwo gutunganya imyenda rusange.
(1) Uburyo bwo gukora imyenda iboshye
Ibikoresho byo hejuru mubuhanga bwo kugenzura uruganda, gukata no kudoda buto ya urufunguzo, ibyuma byo kugenzura imyenda yo gupakira cyangwa kohereza.
Iyo umwenda winjiye mu ruganda, umubare wabyo ugaragara nuburyo bugaragara imbere bigomba kugenzurwa. Gusa iyo bujuje ibyangombwa bisabwa birashobora gushyirwa mubikorwa. Mbere y’umusaruro rusange, gutegura tekiniki bigomba kubanza gukorwa, harimo no gukora urupapuro rwabigenewe, isahani ntangarugero hamwe n’imyenda y’icyitegererezo. Imyenda y'icyitegererezo irashobora kwinjira mubikorwa bitaha nyuma yo kwemezwa nabakiriya. Imyenda iracibwa hanyuma idoda mubicuruzwa byarangiye. Nyuma yuko imyenda imwe ya shitingi ikozwe mubicuruzwa bitarangiye, ukurikije ibisabwa byihariye, bigomba gutondekwa no gutunganywa, nko gukaraba imyenda, kumesa imyenda, gutunganya ingaruka, nibindi, hanyuma, binyuze mubikorwa byubufasha kandi kurangiza inzira, hanyuma bipakirwa bikabikwa nyuma yo gutsinda igenzura.
(2) Intego n'ibisabwa kugenzura imyenda
Ubwiza bwimyenda myiza nigice cyingenzi cyo kugenzura ubuziranenge bwibicuruzwa byarangiye. Kugenzura no kugena imyenda yinjira birashobora kuzamura neza igipimo cyimyenda.
Igenzura ryimyenda ririmo ubuziranenge bwimbere nubwiza bwimbere. Isura nyamukuru yimyenda ni ukumenya niba hari ibyangiritse, ikizinga, ubudodo bwo kuboha, itandukaniro ryamabara nibindi. Imyenda yo kumesa igomba kandi kwitondera niba hari umuhanda wumucanga, kashe yapfuye, kashe nizindi nenge zo gukaraba. Inenge zigira ingaruka zigaragara zigomba gushyirwaho ibimenyetso mubigenzurwa kandi bikirindwa mugukata.
Ubwiza bwimbere bwimyenda burimo kugabanuka, kwihuta kwamabara nuburemere (m, ounce) ibintu bitatu. Mugihe cyo kugenzura icyitegererezo, ibyitegererezo byerekana ubwoko butandukanye namabara atandukanye bigomba gucibwa kugirango bipimishe kugirango amakuru yukuri.
Muri icyo gihe, ibikoresho by'abafasha byinjira mu ruganda na byo bigomba kugenzurwa, nk'igipimo cyo kugabanuka k'umukandara wa elastike, kwihuta kwiziritse ku murongo ufatika, urugero rwa zipper yoroshye, n'ibindi. Ibikoresho bifasha bidashobora kuzuza ibisabwa ntabwo bizashyirwa mubikorwa.
(3) Ibikorwa nyamukuru byo gutegura tekiniki
Mbere yumusaruro rusange, abakozi ba tekinike bagomba kubanza gukora akazi keza ko gutegura tekiniki mbere yumusaruro rusange. Gutegura tekinike bikubiyemo ibintu bitatu: urupapuro rwerekana, gukora impapuro zerekana no gukora imyenda y'icyitegererezo. Gutegura tekinike nuburyo bwingenzi bwo kwemeza umusaruro mwinshi nibicuruzwa byanyuma kugirango byuzuze ibyo abakiriya bakeneye.
Urupapuro rwibikorwa ninyandiko iyobora mugutunganya imyenda. Itanga ibisobanuro birambuye kubisobanuro, kudoda, ibyuma, kurangiza no gupakira, nibindi, kandi binasobanura ibisobanuro birambuye nko gukusanya ibikoresho byimyenda hamwe nubucucike bwinzira zidoda, reba Imbonerahamwe 1-1. Inzira zose mugutunganya imyenda zigomba gukorwa cyane ukurikije ibisabwa kurupapuro.
Icyitegererezo gisaba ubunini nyabwo nibisobanuro byuzuye. Imirongo ya kontour yibice bifitanye isano ihuye neza. Inomero yimyenda, igice, ibisobanuro, icyerekezo cyugufunga ubudodo nibisabwa byujuje ubuziranenge bigomba gushyirwaho ikimenyetso, kandi kashe yerekana icyitegererezo igomba gushyirwaho kashe ahabigenewe.
Nyuma yo kuzuza urupapuro rwabigenewe no gutondekanya icyitegererezo, umusaruro wimyenda mito yicyitegererezo irashobora gukorwa, kandi ikinyuranyo gishobora gukosorwa mugihe gikurikije ibisabwa nabakiriya nibikorwa, kandi ibibazo byinzira birashobora gukemuka, bityo ko ibikorwa byo gutembera kwinshi bishobora gukorwa neza. Icyitegererezo cyabaye kimwe mubikorwa byingenzi byo kugenzura nyuma yumukiriya.
(4) Gukata ibisabwa
Mbere yo gukata, tugomba gushushanya igishushanyo cyo gusohora dukurikije icyitegererezo. "Byuzuye, byumvikana kandi bizigama" nihame shingiro ryo gusezerera. Ibikorwa byingenzi bisabwa mugikorwa cyo guca ni ibi bikurikira:
(1) Kuraho ingano mugihe gikurura, kandi witondere kwirinda inenge.
. Kugirango habeho itandukaniro ryibara mumyenda kumyenda itandukanye.
(3) Mugihe cyo gusohora ibikoresho, witondere niba imigozi yubudodo yigitambara hamwe nicyerekezo cyimyenda yimyenda yujuje ibisabwa. Ku mwenda wa veleti (nka veleti, veleti, corduroy, nibindi), ibikoresho ntibigomba gusubizwa inyuma, bitabaye ibyo uburebure bwamabara yimyenda bizagira ingaruka.
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(5) Gukata bisaba gukata neza, n'imirongo igororotse kandi yoroshye. Umuhanda wa kaburimbo ntugomba kuba mwinshi cyane, kandi hejuru no hepfo yigitambara ntigikabije.
(6) Kata icyuma ukurikije ikimenyetso cy'icyitegererezo.
(7) Hagomba kwitonderwa kutagira ingaruka kumyenda iyo ukoresheje ikimenyetso cya cone. Nyuma yo gukata, kugenzura no kugereranya ibinini bigomba kubarwa, no guhuzwa ukurikije imyenda, hamwe nimero yemeza itike, ibice nibisobanuro bifatanye.
(5) Kudoda no kudoda ninzira nyamukuru yagutunganya imyenda. Kudoda imyenda birashobora kugabanywamo kudoda imashini no kudoda intoki ukurikije imiterere nubukorikori. Mubikorwa byo kudoda no gutunganya ibikorwa byo gushyira mubikorwa ibikorwa.
Gukoresha umurongo ufatika mugutunganya imyenda nibisanzwe, uruhare rwarwo nukworoshya uburyo bwo kudoda, gukora imyenda yubuziranenge bwimyenda, kwirinda guhindagurika no gukuna, no kugira uruhare runini muburyo bwo kwerekana imyenda. Ubwoko bwimyenda idoda, imyenda iboshywe, imyenda yo kuboha nkigitambara fatizo, gukoresha umurongo wometseho bigomba gutoranywa ukurikije imyenda yimyenda nibice, kandi kugirango usobanukirwe neza igihe, ubushyuhe nigitutu, kugirango ugere kubisubizo byiza .
Mugutunganya imyenda iboshywe, ubudodo buhujwe hakurikijwe amategeko runaka kugirango bibe urudodo rukomeye kandi rwiza.
Inzira irashobora gukusanyirizwa muburyo bune bukurikira:
1 Suture imwe. Akarusho kayo nuko ingano yimirongo ikoreshwa muburebure bwikigero ari gito, ariko ikibi nuko irekurwa ryuruhande ruzaba mugihe umurongo wumunyururu wacitse. Urudodo rwa suture ebyiri rwitwa urunigi rudasanzwe, rukozwe murushinge numurongo wumugozi, ubuhanga bwarwo n'imbaraga biruta urudodo rwo gufunga, kandi ntibyoroshye gutatanya icyarimwe. Umurongo umwe wumurongo wumurongo ukunze gukoreshwa mukoti yikoti, ipantaro yikariso, ikoti yikoti yikoti, nibindi. umukandara wa elastike nibindi bice hamwe birambuye hamwe n'imbaraga zikomeye.
2. Umurongo wo gufunga umurongo, uzwi kandi nka shutle suture trace, uhujwe na suture ebyiri murwego. Impera zombi za suture zifite imiterere imwe, kandi kurambura no gukomera birakennye, ariko suture yo hejuru no hepfo irihafi. Umurongo wo gufunga umurongo wa suture niwo usanzwe usanzwe wa suture suture, ikoreshwa kenshi mugushushanya ibice bibiri byibikoresho. Nkubudozi, kubika ubudozi, imifuka nibindi.
3. Gupfunyika suture yerekana ni urudodo rushyizwe kumpera yikurikiranya hamwe nuruhererekane rwa suture. Ukurikije umubare wumurongo wa suture (umwenda wo kudoda umwe, ubudodo bubiri… Ubudodo butandatu bwo gupfunyika). Ikiranga ni ugukora inkombe yibikoresho byo kudoda bipfunyitse, gukina uruhare rwo gukumira impande zumwenda. Iyo ikidodo kirambuye, hashobora kubaho urwego runaka rwo guhererekanya hagati yumurongo wubuso n'umurongo wo hasi, bityo rero elastique yikidodo ni nziza, bityo ikoreshwa cyane kumpera yigitambara. Imigozi itatu-ninsinga enye nizo myenda ikoreshwa cyane. Imirongo itanu-yumurongo hamwe nimirongo itandatu, izwi kandi nka "compte tracks", igizwe numurongo wimirongo ibiri hamwe nimirongo itatu cyangwa insinga enye. Ikintu kinini cyaranze ni imbaraga nini, zishobora guhurizwa hamwe no kuzinga icyarimwe, kugirango zongere ubucucike bwimyenda idoda hamwe nubushobozi bwo kudoda.
4. Ikimenyetso cya suture gikozwe mu nshinge zirenga ebyiri nu mugozi uhetamye unyuze hagati, kandi rimwe na rimwe umugozi umwe cyangwa ibiri yo gushushanya wongewe imbere. Ibiranga ibimenyetso bya suture birakomeye, byiza cyane, biringaniye neza, mubihe bimwe na bimwe (nko kudoda kudoda) birashobora kandi kugira uruhare mukurinda inkombe yigitambara.
Imiterere yo kudoda yibanze irerekanwa mumashusho 1-13. Usibye kudoda shingiro, hariho nuburyo bwo gutunganya nko kuzinga no kudoda imyenda ukurikije ibisabwa muburyo bwa tekinoloji. Guhitamo urushinge, urudodo hamwe ninshinge zingana muburyo bwo kudoda imyenda ikwiye kuzirikana ibisabwa byimyenda yimyenda nibikorwa.
Inshinge zirashobora gushyirwa mubikorwa n "ubwoko numubare". Ukurikije imiterere, ubudodo bushobora kugabanywamo ubwoko bwa S, J, B, U, Y, bujyanye nimyenda itandukanye, ukoresheje ubwoko bwinshinge bukwiye.
Umubyimba wubudozi bukoreshwa mubushinwa utandukanijwe numubare, kandi urwego rwubugari ruba rwinshi kandi rwinshi hamwe no kwiyongera kwumubare. Ubudodo bukoreshwa mugutunganya imyenda mubusanzwe buri hagati ya 7 na 18, kandi imyenda itandukanye ikoresha ubudodo butandukanye bwubunini butandukanye.
Ihame, guhitamo ubudozi bigomba kuba bifite ibara rimwe nibara ryumwenda wimyenda (cyane cyane kubishushanyo mbonera). Ubudodo muri rusange burimo umugozi wubudodo, ipamba, ipamba / umugozi wa polyester, umugozi wa polyester, nibindi. Mugihe duhitamo ubudozi, tugomba nanone kwita kumiterere yubudozi, nko kwihuta kwamabara, kugabanuka, imbaraga zihuta nibindi. Suture isanzwe igomba gukoreshwa kumyenda yose.
Ubucucike bw'urushinge ni ubucucike bw'ikirenge cy'urushinge, rusuzumwa n'umubare wa suture uri muri 3cm hejuru yigitambara, kandi ushobora no kugaragazwa numubare wa pinhole uri mu mwenda wa 3cm. Urushinge rusanzwe rwinshi muburyo bwo gutunganya imyenda.
Kudoda imyenda muri rusange bisaba neza kandi byiza, ntibishobora kugaragara nkibisanzwe, bigoramye, kumeneka, kudoda nabi nibindi bintu. Mu kudoda, dukwiye kwitondera uburyo bwo gutera, hamwe no guhuza. Ikidodo kigomba kuba kimwe kandi kigororotse, cyoroshye kandi cyoroshye; tangent yimyenda yubuso iringaniye nta minkanyari hamwe nubunini buto; suture imeze neza, idafite umurongo wacitse, umurongo ureremba, nibice byingenzi nkibisobanuro bya collar ntibishobora kuba insinga.
(6) urufunguzo rw'imisumari
Gufunga umwobo hamwe n'imisumari yimyenda mubusanzwe bikozwe nimashini. Indobo y'amaso igabanyijemo umwobo uringaniye n'umwobo w'amaso ukurikije imiterere yabyo, bakunze kwita umwobo uryamye hamwe n'ijisho ry'inuma.
Amaso agororotse akoreshwa cyane mumashati, amajipo, ipantaro nibindi bicuruzwa byoroshye.
Amaso ya Phoenix akoreshwa cyane muri jacketi, ikositimu nizindi myenda yuzuye mubyiciro byikoti.
Gufunga umwobo bigomba kwitondera ingingo zikurikira:
(1) Niba imyanya ya cingulate ari yo.
(2) Niba ingano yijisho rya buto ihuye nubunini nubunini bwa buto.
(3) Niba gufungura buto yaciwe neza.
. Ubudozi bwa buto bugomba guhura nu mwanya wa butting point, bitabaye ibyo buto ntizitera kugoreka no kugoreka kumwanya wa buto. Hagomba kandi kwitonderwa niba umubare n'imbaraga z'umurongo wibanze bihagije kugirango wirinde ko buto igwa, kandi niba umubare wamafaranga yimyenda yimyenda ihagije.
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Hariho imirimo itatu yingenzi yicyuma:
(1) Kuraho iminkanyari yimyenda ukoresheje gutera no gutera ibyuma, hanyuma ufate ibice.
(2) Nyuma yo kuvura bishyushye, kora imyenda isa neza, ishimishije, imirongo igororotse.
. imiterere nibikorwa byerekana, kugirango imyenda igere ku ntego yo kugaragara neza no kwambara neza.
Ibintu bine byibanze bigira ingaruka kumyenda ni: ubushyuhe, ubushuhe, umuvuduko nigihe. Ubushyuhe bwicyuma nikintu nyamukuru kigira ingaruka kumyuma. Gufata ubushyuhe bwicyuma cyimyenda itandukanye nikibazo cyingenzi cyo kwambara. Ubushyuhe bwa fer ni buke cyane kuburyo butagera ku cyuma; ubushyuhe bw'icyuma buzatera ibyangiritse.
Ubushyuhe bwicyuma cyubwoko bwose bwa fibre, nubwo mugihe cyo guhura, umuvuduko wimuka, igitutu cyicyuma, cyaba uburiri, uburebure bwigitanda nubushuhe bifite ibintu bitandukanye.
Ibintu bikurikira bigomba kwirindwa mugucuma:
(1) Aurora no gutwika hejuru yumwenda.
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(3) Hariho imyanda n'ibice bishyushye.
(8) Kugenzura imyenda
Igenzura ryimyenda rigomba kunyura mubikorwa byose byo gutunganya, kudoda, ingobyi y'urufunguzo, kurangiza no gucuma. Mbere yo gupakira no guhunika, ibicuruzwa byarangiye nabyo bigomba kugenzurwa byuzuye kugirango harebwe ubuziranenge bwibicuruzwa.
Ibyingenzi bikubiye mubicuruzwa byarangiye birimo:
(1) Niba imiterere ari imwe nicyitegererezo cyo kwemeza.
(2) Niba ingano n'ibisobanuro byujuje ibisabwa urupapuro rwabigenewe hamwe n imyenda y'icyitegererezo.
(3) Niba suture ikwiye, kandi niba kudoda ari imyenda myiza kandi iringaniye.
(4) imyenda yigitambaro reba niba byombi ari ukuri.
(5) niba imyenda ya silk wisp ikwiye, niba nta nenge iri kumyenda, amavuta arahari.
(6) Niba hari ikibazo gitandukanya ibara mumyenda imwe.
(7) Niba ibyuma ari byiza.
(8) Niba umurongo uhuza ushikamye, kandi niba hari ibintu bifatika byinjira.
(9) Niba umutwe winsinga wasanwe.
(10) Niba ibikoresho by'imyenda byuzuye.
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(12) Niba imiterere rusange yimyenda ari nziza.
(13) Niba ibipaki byujuje ibisabwa.
(9) Gupakira no kubika
Gupakira imyenda birashobora kugabanywamo ubwoko bubiri bwo kumanika no gupakira, ubusanzwe bigabanijwe mubipfunyika imbere no gupakira hanze.
Gupakira imbere bivuga imyenda imwe cyangwa nyinshi mumufuka wa reberi. Umubare wubwishyu nubunini bwimyenda bigomba kuba bihuye nibiranga igikapu, kandi ibipfunyika bigomba kuba byiza kandi byiza. Imyambarire idasanzwe yimyenda igomba gupakirwa hamwe nubuvuzi bwihariye, nkimyenda ihindagurika igomba gupakirwa muburyo bwa wrung, kugirango ikomeze uburyo bwayo.
Igipapuro cyo hanze gikunze gupakirwa mubikarito, ukurikije ibisabwa nabakiriya cyangwa amabwiriza yimpapuro. Ifishi yo gupakira muri rusange ni ibara rivanze kode ivanze, ibara rimwe ryigenga kode, ibara rimwe rivanze kode, ivanga ibara ryigenga kode y'ubwoko bune. Mugihe cyo gupakira, dukwiye kwitondera ubwinshi bwuzuye nibara ryukuri hamwe nubunini. Koza agasanduku kanditseho agasanduku ko hanze, byerekana umukiriya, icyambu cyoherejwe, nimero yisanduku, ingano, inkomoko, nibindi, nibirimo bihuye nibicuruzwa nyirizina.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Gicurasi-25-2024
