1. Gushyira mu byiciro imyenda ya jacquard
Ibara rimwe rya jacquard ni umwenda waranzwe na jacquard - umwenda w'umukara wa jacquard ubanza kubohwa na jacquard loom, hanyuma ugasigwa irangi hanyuma ukarangira. Kubwibyo, umwenda wa jacquard urimo irangi ry'ubudodo ufite amabara arenga abiri, umwenda ufite amabara menshi, ntabwo ari umutobe, imiterere ifite ingaruka zikomeye z'ibice bitatu, kandi urwego ruri hejuru. Ubugari bw'umwenda ntibugarukira aho, kandi umwenda w'ipamba urimo irangi rito, ntugabanya, kandi ntushira. Imyenda ya Jacquard muri rusange ishobora gukoreshwa mu myenda yo mu rwego rwo hejuru n'iyo mu rwego rwo hejuru cyangwa ibikoresho byo mu nganda z'imitako (nk'amarido, imyenda ya sofa). Uburyo bwo gukora imyenda ya jacquard buragoye. Ubudodo bwo kuzunguruka n'ubwo kuzunguruka buvangavanga hejuru no hasi kugira ngo bukore imiterere itandukanye, hamwe n'imiterere yoroshye n'iyoroshye, kandi imiterere myiza nk'indabyo, inyoni, amafi, udukoko, inyoni n'inyamaswa akenshi irabohwa.
Imiterere yihariye yoroshye, yoroshye kandi yoroshye, irabagirana neza, irabagirana neza kandi irahumeka neza, irangi ryihuse cyane (irangi ry'ubudodo). Imiterere y'imyenda ya jacquard ni nini kandi iraryoshye, kandi urwego rw'amabara rurasobanutse kandi rufite imiterere itatu, mu gihe imiterere y'imyenda ya dobby yoroshye kandi imwe.
SatinIgitambaro cya jacquard (igitambaro): Igitambaro cyo kuzunguruka n'igitambaro cyo kuzunguruka biboha nibura buri budodo butatu, bityo ubudodo bwa satin butuma igitambaro kiba kinini, bityo igitambaro kikaba kinini. Ibicuruzwa bya satin weave bihenda cyane kurusha ibikoresho bisa byo byo kuzunguruka n'ibitambaro byo kuzunguruka. Imyenda ibohanywe na satin weave hamwe yitwa imyenda ya satin weave. Imyenda ya satin weave ishobora kugabanywamo impande z'imbere n'inyuma. Mu ruziga rwuzuye rwo kuzunguruka, hari ingingo zo kuzunguruka nke cyane n'imirongo miremire cyane ireremba. Ubuso bw'igitambaro hafi ya bwose bugizwe n'imirongo ireremba cyangwa ireremba. Igitambaro cya satin weave cyoroshye mu miterere. Igitambaro cya satin weave gifite impande z'imbere n'inyuma, kandi ubuso bw'igitambaro buraryoshye kandi bworoshye, bwuzuyemo umucyo. Igitambaro cya satin gikunze kugaragara cyane ni satin ifite imirongo, yitwa satin. Iboneka mu mirongo ya satin ifite ubugari bwa metero 40 n'ubugari bwa metero 2 n'imirongo ya satin ifite ubugari bwa metero 60 n'ubugari bwa metero 2 n'ubugari bwa metero 8. Uburyo bwo kuboha mbere hanyuma ugasiga irangi, ubu bwoko bw'igitambaro muri rusange bufite ibara rikomeye, ryagutse n'imirongo itambitse. Igitambaro cy'ipamba gikeye kiragabanuka gato, ntigitera gushonga, kandi nticyoroshye gushonga.
2. Uburyo bwo kubungabunga imyenda
Kumesa: Imyenda iboshywe mu migozi yoroshye ishingiye kuri poroteyine. Kumesa ntibigomba gusigwa ku bintu bikomeye cyangwa ngo byozwe mu mashini imesa. Imyenda igomba kwinjizwa mu mazi akonje mu gihe cy'iminota 5-10, kandi igakorwamo isabune ya silk cyangwa isabune idakoresha ikoranabuhanga. Siga buhoro n'isabune (niba woza imyenda mito nk'udutambaro twa silk, ni byiza gukoresha shampoo), kandi woze imyenda ya silk ifite ibara mu mazi meza kenshi.
Kumisha: Imyenda ntigomba kumeswa n'izuba nyuma yo kumesa, ndetse no gushyushywa n'icyuma cyumutsa. Muri rusange, igomba kumyuka ahantu hakonje kandi hahumeka umwuka. Kubera ko imirasire ya ultraviolet ku zuba ikunda kuba umuhondo, irashya kandi igasaza imyenda ya silika. Kubwibyo, nyuma yo kumesa imyenda ya silika, si byiza kuyizunguza kugira ngo ikureho amazi. Igomba kuzunguzwa buhoro, hanyuma uruhande rw'inyuma rugashyirwamo umwuka hanze, hanyuma rugakozwa ipasi cyangwa rugazunguzwa neza nyuma yo kumisha kugeza 70% byumutse.
Gutera ipasi: Ubudahangarwa bw'imyenda ni bubi gato kurusha ubwa fibre za shimi, bityo hari imvugo ivuga ngo "nta minkanyari atari silki nyayo". Niba imyenda yacitsemo iminkanyari nyuma yo kumesa, igomba guterwa ipasi kugira ngo ibe nziza, nziza kandi nziza. Mu gihe utera ipasi, wumishe imyenda kugeza yumye 70%, hanyuma utere amazi neza, hanyuma utegereze iminota 3-5 mbere yo gutera ipasi. Ubushyuhe bwo gutera ipasi bugomba kugenzurwa munsi ya 150°C. Icyuma ntikigomba gukora ku buso bwa silki neza kugira ngo wirinde aurora.
Kubungabunga: Kubungabunga imyenda, imyenda y'imbere yoroheje, amashati, ipantaro,amakanzu, imyenda yo kurarana, nibindi, banza ubyiyuhagire neza, ubishyire ipasi ubyumutse mbere yo kubibika. Ku myenda yo mu gihe cy'impeshyi n'imbeho, amakoti, Hanfu, na cheongsam bigoye gukuraho no kumesa, bigomba gusukurwa no gusukurwa byumye no gusigwa ipasi kugeza igihe bihanaguwe kugira ngo hirindwe ibihumyo n'udusimba. Nyuma yo kubishyiraho ipasi, bishobora no kugira uruhare mu gusukura no kwica udukoko. Muri icyo gihe, amasanduku n'utubati two kubikamo imyenda bigomba kuguma bisukuye kandi bifunze uko bishoboka kose kugira ngo hirindwe ivumbi ryanduza.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Mutarama 10-2023
