Ingendo zitandukanye kuva ku bugore bworoshye kugeza ku ijoro ryijimye zigaragaza uko rubanda bumva ubugore, bigatuma imyenda myiza irushaho kuryoha kandi yoroshye kwambara izamuka. Imyambaro y'abagabo iteza imbere ubugabo buca ingoyi z'umuco, kandi imyenda yoroshye yoroshye n'imyenda ishaje ni ingenzi mu kugaragaza iyi ngendo, ndetse inatanga imiterere myiza n'imikorere myiza ijyanye n'ibyo umuntu akeneye mu buzima bwa buri munsi.
1. Uruhu rufite imiterere
Mu gihe abaguzi bibanda ku migabane isanzwe y'ishoramari, uruhu ruramba n'uruhu ni byo bisimbura ibindiimyendakureba.
Mu nsanganyamatsiko ya Homecoming, icyegeranyo cya Off-White 2024 cyo mu ntangiriro z'impeshyi gihuza ibimenyetso by'umuco bya Afurika n'Abanyamerika, imitako, ibikoresho, imiterere n'ibindi binyabutabire binyuze mu myambaro itandukanye, kandi kikabigaragaza mu buryo burambuye. Ku myambarire y'abagore muri iki gihembwe, itsinda ry'abashushanya rirushaho kuba hafi y'imyambarire yo mu rwego rwo hejuru, rigaragaza ishusho nziza kandi ifite imiterere.
Icyegeranyo cya Namilia cyo mu mpeshyi/impeshyi 2024 gifite insanganyamatsiko igira iti "Mu kwibuka dada wanjye w’umubyeyi mwiza." Guhindura amasakoshi ya Hermes nk'imyenda, gukosora ibitekerezo by’ivangura rishingiye ku gitsina hamwe n'amashusho mashya kandi yihariye.
MOSCHINO ni ikirango cy’Abataliyani cyiswe n’umunyamideli Franco Moschino. Ibicuruzwa bya Moschino byashinzwe mu 1983 bizwiho imiterere idasanzwe, imyambarire myiza n’ishimishije, urwenya rw’imideli, ndetse n’uburyo bw’ingenzi bwo gukina. Icyegeranyo cya Moschino cyo mu ntangiriro z’impeshyi 2024 cy’abagore n’abagabo bo mu mpeshyi/impeshyi ni ibirori by’urukundo.
Urukurikirane rwa Stine Goya 2024 rw’impeshyi/impeshyi rwitwa "Homecoming", umuhanga mu by’imideli azimura igitaramo atuyemo, ashyireho ameza, akoreshe ibirori kandi atumire abitabiriye ku meza, agaragaza ibyiyumvo byo "kuba mu rugo". Muri iki gitaramo, hagaragara umubare munini w’imyenda ya denim yacapwe, imyenda irabagirana ifite imiterere, uruhu rwometseho amavuta n’indi myenda, isanzwe ikoreshwa buri munsi.
2. Ingaruka za Satin
Imiterere ihambaye n'imitako mishya y'abagabo byiganje mu kibuga cy'indege, kandi ubwiza bwa satin bworoshye ni bwo bwatumye habaho imiterere inyuranye kandi igezweho. Uruvange rw'imitako ikoze mu buryo bworoheje kandi butanga imiterere yoroheje ikwiriye kwambarwa buri munsi, kandi imiterere ya silk yo mu rwego rwo hejuru ishobora no kongerwamo kuikanzu.
Umushushanyi Neil Barrett, watangije imyenda y’abagabo mu myaka ya 1990, akaba n’umuderi w’ikirango, agaruka mu imurikagurisha ry’imideli rya Milan Men’s Fashion muri iki gihembwe afite umwihariko w’iki kirango.
Hamwe n'uburyo bworoshye bwo kwambara akazi aho kuba uburyo busanzwe bwo kwambara, icyegeranyo cya Neil Barrett cyo mu mpeshyi/impeshyi 2024 kiduha ibihe byiza kandi bifatika. Bitandukanye n'imirongo y'imyenda isanzwe, hari amahitamo menshi y'imyenda. Neil Barrett yakoresheje imyenda ifite imiterere itandukanye kugira ngo yongere imiterere mu bitaramo 32 by'imideli, kandi yagaragaje imiterere n'imyitwarire itandukanye ku gishushanyo mbonera cy'imyenda isanzwe binyuze mu mwenda wa velvet, satin cyangwa imyenda iboshye.
Guhera ku cyifuzo cy’amayobera ya kera, icyegeranyo cya ETRO Men's Spring/Summer 2024 giha imbaraga imideli mu gutumanaho no kugaragaza ibitekerezo binyuze mu mashusho. Muri icyo gitaramo, amakoti y’imyenda n’amashati ya silike yacapwe, amashati yo hejuru adafite amaboko n’amakabutura magufi ya Bermuda, amakaridigane adoze n’amapantaro manini byavanzwe kandi bihuzwa kugira ngo bireme ubwiza n’ubutagatifu, ariko nanone binahuzwe n’uburyo bworoshye.
Isosiyete y’imyambarire yo mu Bufaransa yitwa Egonlab yamuritse icyegeranyo cyayo cy’abagabo cyo mu mpeshyi no mu mpeshyi 2024 mu cyumweru cy’imyambarire cya Milan. Mu bijyanye n’imiterere, iki gihembwe kigerageza guca ukubiri n’amahame y’imyambarire y’abagabo no gusobanura "ubugabo bushya" binyuze mu gucagura neza no kwambara imyenda yambaye ubusa. Ibintu nko kwambara imyenda isanzwe, gushushanya imyenda, no kureba uko igaragara mu myambarire y’abagore bigaragara mu myambarire y’abagabo muri iki gihembwe, kandi nubwo Egonlab igaragara nk’ikirango kidashingiye ku gitsina, iyi myambaro ni iy’abagore kurusha iyabanje.
3. Ibikoresho bya Tulle
Ubugore bw'iki gihembwe bushobora kuba bworoshye kandi bwiza, ariko kandi bushobora kuba bwimbitse kandi bwijimye. Mu bice, imyenda y'iminsi mikuru, imyenda y'ibirori, akenshi haba hari ibikoresho birebire kandi bibonerana nka lace, chiffon na organza. Biragaragara ko mu byiciro by'isura, ibisobanuro by'ubugabo bikomeje guca iminyururu y'ubwoko bwose, kandi tulle nziza yabaye ahantu heza ku kibuga cy'indege.
Alessandra Rich, ashingiye ku muco w’i Burayi bw’Iburengerazuba, ahuza ubwiza, ubushinyaguzi n’icyizere. Yaba ari ikanzu y’urubyiruko cyangwa ikanzu y’umugoroba yuzuyemo imitako n’amabara y’urukweto, ashobora kuyikora neza cyane.
Icyegeranyo cya Dries Van Noten cyo mu mpeshyi/impeshyi 2024 kivuga ko "Ni ukwibutsa ku kunoza ibintu, kwishimira utuntu duto duto n'itandukaniro aho kwishimira ibimenyetso bikomeye." Imbaraga n'ubusobanuro bw'ubworoherane. Kuraho ibikoresho bitari ngombwa." Van Noten kandi yereka abari aho ko hari imbaraga zihugiye kandi zifuzwa mu bwiza bworoheje, bugaragarira muri
ubwiza bw'imyenda, aho imyenda yoroshye isa n'aho ireremba hejuru y'umubiri, ikagaragaza uruhu rwambaye ubusa.
4. Tannins za kera
Imiterere ya buri munsi igira ingaruka ku myambarire ya tannin, kandi amakoti ya denim, imyenda yo kwambara kera n'amabara ya tannin ni ingenzi mu gutuma habaho imyambarire y'ibihe by'ikinyejana.
Icyegeranyo cya Ganni 2024 cy’impeshyi/impeshyi gitangirana n’isura nziza cyane igabanya imiterere y’ubwiza gakondo bwo mu muhanda. Amakoti ya denim ya buri munsi arushaho kuba meza mu miterere y’uyu mwaka, kandi amakoti yacapwe yagaragaye muri iki gitaramo arashishikaje cyane.
Ishusho nini ifite imitako myiza irakunzwe cyane. Iyi miterere yo gusiga amarangi no kudoda igenewe gukorera ibyo itsinda ry’urubyiruko rikunda, kandi iki gicuruzwa gikurikiza igitekerezo cyo kurengera ibidukikije kandi gikoresha ibikoresho bishobora kongera gukoreshwa, ku buryo ikirango gikundwa cyane n’urubyiruko rwa Z.
5. Kudoda mu nzozi
Muri iki gihembwe Etro itanga uburyo bworoshye bwo kudoda bufite amabara yoroshye. Ifite ubudodo bw'urukundo, irangi rijyanye n'inzozi kugira ngo rigaragaze ubwiza budasanzwe bw'ubuhanzi.
PH5 yashinzwe mu 2014 mu Mujyi wa New York, ni ikirango cy’imyenda y’abagore igezweho yashinzwe na Wei Lin na Mijia Zhang, ikaba irwanya ibitekerezo bisanzwe by’imyenda y’ubudozi kandi ihuza imiterere ishimishije n’imiterere y’ubuhanga bwo kuboha. Muri iki gihembwe, ibikoresho by’imyenda y’ubudozi bya PH5 "Ikoti rya Denim, igice cya denim"ijipo"Ikanzu ya denim slip" ishimangira insanganyamatsiko igira iti "kuringaniza iy'ukuri n'iy'impimbano", ikomeza kugaragara nk'ikoti rya denim mu gihe yongeraho ubushyuhe n'uburemere bw'imyenda yo kuboha.
Igihe cyo kohereza: 10 Nyakanga-2024