Nigute abari mu nganda batekereza imyenda ya lace?

Umwanyani Ibitumizwa mu mahanga.Mesh tissue, ubanza intoki zakozwe na crochet.Abanyaburayi n'Abanyamerika bakoresha imyenda myinshi y'abagore, cyane cyane mu myambarire ya nimugoroba no mu bukwe.Mu kinyejana cya 18, inkiko z’i Burayi n’abagabo bakomeye nazo zakoreshwaga cyane mu makariso, amajipo ya cola, n’imigozi.

a

Inkomoko y'umurongo
Imiterere yururabyo rwumurambararo ntabwo yabonetse kuboha cyangwa kuboha, ahubwo yabonaga umugozi.Mu Burayi mu kinyejana cya 16 n'icya 17, ikoreshwa ry'udodo-twinshi twa lace twabaye isoko yinjiza abanyabukorikori ku giti cyabo ndetse n'uburyo abagore b'abanyacyubahiro bakoresha igihe cyabo.Muri kiriya gihe, imibereho yabantu yari ikenewe cyane, bigatuma abakozi ba lace bakora bananiwe cyane.Bakundaga gukora mu nsi yo hasi, kandi urumuri rwaracogoye, ku buryo bashoboraga kubona gusa inziga zizunguruka.
Kubera ko John Heathcoat yahimbye umugozi wa lace (watanzwe mu 1809), uruganda rw’abongereza rwinjira mu nganda, iyi mashini irashobora gutanga umusaruro mwiza kandi usanzwe wa shitingi.Abanyabukorikori bakeneye gusa kuboha ibishushanyo kurubuga, ubusanzwe bikozwe mubudodo.Nyuma yimyaka mike, John Leavers yahimbye imashini yakoresheje ihame ryimyenda ya jacquard yubufaransa kugirango ikore imishino ya lace na mesh mesh, kandi inashyiraho imigenzo ya lace muri Nottingham.Imashini ya Leavers iragoye cyane, igizwe nibice 40000 nubwoko bwimirongo 50000, igomba gukora uhereye kumpande zitandukanye.

b

Uyu munsi, ibigo bimwe na bimwe byiza cyane bya lace biracyakoresha imashini za Leavers.Karl Mayer yazanye imashini ziboha zintambara nka Jacquardtronic na Textronic kugirango zivemo lace lace lace, ariko zifite ubukungu, bwiza kandi bworoshye.compose
Imyenda y'imyenda ya lace nka rayon, nylon, polyester na spandex nayo ihindura imiterere ya lace, ariko ubwiza bwurudodo rwakoreshwaga mu gukora imishumi bugomba kuba bwiza cyane, hamwe numubare munini ugereranije ugereranije nudodo dukoreshwa mububoshyi cyangwa kuboha.

Ibigize no gutondekanya umurongo
Lace ikoresha nylon, polyester, ipamba na rayon nkibikoresho nyamukuru.Niba hiyongereyeho spandex cyangwa silike ya elastike, elastique irashobora kuboneka.
Nylon (cyangwa polyester) + spandex: umugozi rusange.
Nylon + polyester + (spandex): irashobora gukorwa mumurongo wamabara abiri, ikozwe namabara atandukanye ya brocade no gusiga irangi rya polyester.
Polyester yuzuye (cyangwa nylon yuzuye): irashobora kugabanywamo filament imwe na filament imwe, ahanini ikoreshwa mumyambarire yubukwe;filament irashobora kwigana ingaruka zipamba.
Nylon (polyester) + ipamba: irashobora gukorwa muburyo butandukanye bwamabara.
Muri rusange, umurongo uri ku isoko muri rusange ugabanijwemo fibre fibre fibre, igitambaro cy'ipamba, umugozi w'ipamba, ubudodo bwo kudoda hamwe n'amazi ashonga amazi ibi byiciro bitanu.Buri mugozi ufite ibiranga, kandi bifite ibyiza nibibi bitandukanye.

Imbaraga n'intege nke za Lace
1, imiti ya fibre fibre nubwoko busanzwe bwimyenda ya lace, ibikoresho bishingiye kuri nylon, spandex.Imiterere yacyo muri rusange ni ntoya, kandi irakomeye, niba guhura nuruhu bishobora kumva bitoroshye.Ariko ibyiza bya fibre fibre lace nigiciro gihenze, ibishushanyo byinshi, amabara menshi, kandi bikomeye ntabwo byoroshye gucika.Ingaruka za fibre fibre ya chimique nuko atari nziza, abantu zha, ntabwo ari ubushyuhe bwo hejuru, cyane cyane ntabwo byoroshye, ntibishobora kwambarwa nkimyenda bwite.Kandi muri rusange, bitewe nigiciro cyibikoresho bya fibre fibre, ikoreshwa cyane mumyenda ihendutse, bityo bizaha abantu ubwoko bw "bihendutse".
2. Ubudodo bw'ipamba muri rusange ni ubwoko bw'umugozi bukozwe mu budodo bw'ipamba ku murongo w'ipamba, hanyuma ukata igice cyambaye imyenda y'ipamba.Ipamba y'ipamba nayo ni ubwoko busanzwe, irashobora kugaragara kumyenda myinshi, elastique ahanini ni kimwe nigitambara.Ibyiza bya pamba ya pamba nibiciro bihendutse, ntabwo byoroshye kumeneka, birashobora gukanda kubushyuhe bwinshi, ukumva ari byiza.Ariko ibibi by'ipamba biroroshye kubyimba, imiterere mike, mubyukuri byera gusa.Mubisanzwe nukuvuga, ipamba ya pamba nubundi buryo bwiza niba udashaka gukoresha fibre ya fibre ihendutse, haribintu bikomeye byigiciro.
3, umugozi w ipamba, nkuko izina ribigaragaza, ni ugukoresha umugozi w ipamba ubohewe mumurongo.Ipamba y'ipamba kubera ko ikoreshwa ryurudodo rw ipamba, bityo ubunini rusange buzaba bwinshi, umva bizakomera.Ibyiza nibibi byurudodo rwipamba rusa nubwa pamba.Ipamba y'ipamba irasa gato cyane kuruta ipamba, igiciro gihenze cyane, kandi ntabwo byoroshye kubyimba, ariko kubera ko ari binini, ntabwo byoroshye kuzinga no kunama.Muri rusange, umugozi w ipamba usanzwe ukoreshwa mumyenda kumurongo muto, kandi ntigaragara.
4, umudozi wo kudoda uri murwego rwurushundura rufite ipamba, polyester nizindi nyuzi kugirango ushushanye imiterere yumurongo, hanyuma ugabanye urucacagu kuko umurongo ari mesh, bityo ibyiyumvo bizahinduka ukurikije ubukana bwa mesh, ariko muri rusange, ubudodo bworoshye bwo gukora bukozwe muri mesh yoroshye bizaba byiza.Ugereranije nubwoko 3 hejuru ya, ibyiza byo gushushanya ubudodo ni ukumva byoroshye kandi byoroshye, ntibyoroshye kubyimba, birashobora gukuba, elastique nibyiza.Ingaruka zo kudoda ntabwo ari ubushyuhe bwo hejuru, kwerekana imiterere ni bike, byoroshye kumeneka.Muri rusange, imyenda ifite ibyangombwa bisabwa kugirango byoroherezwe nibikoresho bizakoreshwa cyane cyane imishumi idoze, nk'imyenda y'imbere hamwe n'imbere.
5, umugozi ushonga amazi ukorwa nu mugozi wa polyester cyangwa viscose lace lace ishusho ikozwe ku rupapuro rwumurongo, nyuma yo kurangiza gukoresha amazi yubushyuhe bwo hejuru kugirango ushongeshe impapuro, hasigara umubiri wumugozi gusa, nubwo izina ryamazi- Umuti.Kuberako umugozi ushonga amazi ufite inshinge nyinshi kurenza izivuzwe haruguru, umugozi ushonga amazi nayo uhenze cyane.Akarusho k'amazi ashonga amazi ni uko yumva ari meza cyane, yoroshye kandi yoroshye, yoroheje gato, yaka, ibyerekezo-bitatu, hamwe nuburyo bwinshi bwo kwerekana.Ikibi cyumuti ushonga amazi ni uko ikiguzi kiri hejuru cyane, ugereranije cyane, nticyoroshye kugundwa, kandi ntigishobora gukanda ku bushyuhe bwinshi.Muri rusange, imyenda ifite akazi keza nibikoresho ikoresha cyane cyane imishwarara ikabura amazi, hamwe nu mugozi wakozwe neza-amazi ashobora gushika ku giciro cyinshi cyangwa amagana yuan / metero.


Igihe cyo kohereza: Apr-02-2024