BOW AESTHETIC

Umuhetobagarutse, kandi kuriyi nshuro, abantu bakuru barimo kwinjiramo. Kubijyanye numuheto mwiza, tuvuye mubice 2 kugirango tumenye, amateka yumuheto, hamwe nabashushanyaga bazwi cyane bambaye imyenda.

Umuheto watangiriye mu Burayi mu gihe cya "Intambara ya Palatine" mu myaka yo hagati. Abasirikare benshi bakoresheje ibitambaro bya silike mu ijosi kugirango bakosore amakariso yabo. Umuyobozi wimyambarire Louis XIV yabonye ko, noneho hateguwe karuvati. Ubu bwoko bw'umuheto bwatangijwe vuba kuva mu Bufaransa kugera mu Bwongereza, hanyuma bukwira mu Burayi, buba ikimenyetso cy'icyubahiro n'uburanga.

Mu kinyejana cya 17, "Imiterere ya Baroque" yari ikunzwe cyane, abadamu na banyakubahwa batangira gushushanya imyenda yabo bakoresheje intoki za lace. Muri kiriya gihe, imiheto yakoreshwaga mu gushushanya imyenda ya silike na satine, imyenda ya cyami, imidari y'icyubahiro ya gisirikare, imitako ya zahabu, n'ibindi.

Mu kinyejana cya 18, "Imiterere ya Rococo" yakwirakwiriye mu Burayi, kandi iki gihe nacyo cyari "igihe cyiza" cyo gushariza umuheto. Kuva ku muheto wa Louis XIV kugeza ku cyegeranyo cy’imitako y’umwamikazi Marie, imiheto yamye ari imwe mu mico yakunzwe mu miryango y’abami b’i Burayi.

Mu kinyejana cya 20, imiheto yatangiye kugaragara mubikorwa byinshi byabashushanyije. Imiheto ntabwo yerekana gusa ibitekerezo byabagore nigikundiro, ahubwo ni kimwe mubintu bikundwa cyane mubishushanya. Ibirango bitandukanye bifite uburyo bwo gusobanura butandukanye.

Mu myaka ya za 1950, Jacques Fath, umwe mu bayobozi batatu b’imyambarire y’Ubufaransa, imurikagurisha rye ryo mu 1950 ryateje abantu benshi. Jacques Fath's ntabwo igarukira gusa kumuheto mubishushanyo bye, ahubwo ihuza abstraction yayo mumyambarire. Ibi kandi byashyizeho urufatiro rwumuheto kugirango ube ikintu kirambye cyimyambarire.

Gabrielle Chanel nawe yagize ibyiyumvo bidasanzwe kumiheto. Mu bishushanyo bye, imiheto yashushanyaga ubwiza nicyubahiro.

Mu 1927, havutse igitabo kizwi cyane cya Elsa Schiaparelli "Dislocated Visual Bow Knit Sweater". Igishushanyo cyari agashya gashize amanga yahinduye umuheto uva muburyo butatu uhinduka imitako ibiri.

Umuheto wabayeho mumateka ya Christian Dior, kuva kumyambarire yo hejuru kugeza gupakira parufe, uhuza neza ubwiza no gukinisha umuheto.

Cristóbal Balenciaga akunda gusobanura ishusho yumugore nkikinyugunyugu gifite amababa arambuye. Binyuze muburyo butandukanye n'imirongo, icyitegererezo cyihishe muribi bininiimyambarire, nkaho bashobora kuguruka hejuru igihe icyo aricyo cyose.

Kugeza ubu, imiheto, igereranya urukundo, ubwiza n'ubwiza, imiheto iracyari kimwe mubintu bisanzwe muburyo bw'imyambarire y'abagore bigezweho. Bahora bahindura isura yabo kubushake bwabashushanyije, kandi bafite uruhare runini muburyo bwiza bwimyenda.

Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons) afite imyumvire idasanzwe yibintu byumuheto. Imiterere ye ni Kwirengagiza amategeko no guca imigenzo. Mu imurikagurisha ry’impeshyi n’impeshyi 2022, yerekanye umuheto muburyo bwo gucapa no mu bipimo bitatu, ubu buryo butandukana nuburyo gakondo bwo gukabiriza imiterere yimiheto, icapiro na 3d umuheto byagize ingaruka zikomeye zo kubona. Ubuhanga bwo gucapa cyangwa uburyo butatu bwo gushushanya bukoreshwa mugushushanya ahantu hanini h'umuheto, indabyo, amababi nubundi buryo kuri silhouette yoroshye. Gusubiramo inshuro 3d umuheto, hamwe na "bibiri-bipima" resin yimisatsi bizana ingaruka zikomeye zo kubona.

Giambattista Valli yari umuhanga mubyamamare ukomoka mu Butaliyani, kandi yubatse ikirango gifite izina rye mu 2004. Imiheto, tulle, ruffles, umukandara, hamwe nudushusho tw’indabyo 3D ni ibintu byasinywe na Giambattista Valli. Ibishushanyo bya Giambattista Valli ikoresha umuheto munini wa kera, n'imirongo yoroshye, yuzuye ubuhanzi. Gutera indabyo za indabyo nindabyo ziratondekanye, bigaha abantu ibyiyumvo bibi kandi byinzozi. Igishushanyo hamwe n'umukara kirema ikirere gihamye kandi kidasanzwe. Umutuku wijimye utuma imyenda yoroshye kandi nziza. Imyambarire ishushanya umuheto uryoshye hamwe no gukabya hem yatsindiye imitima yabateze amatwi kubera ubwiza bwayo. Byinshi mubishushanyo biri muburyo bwindabyo, nigitambara cya lace, bikora ingaruka nziza kandi ihuriweho.

Alexis Mabille ni ikirango kizwi cyashinzwe nuwashushanyije Alexis Mabille mu 2005. Umuheto nikimenyetso cyiza cyuyu musore ukiri muto. Yavuze ko "umuheto wo mu muheto" ari ikimenyetso cy’ibitekerezo bidafite aho bibogamiye, bidashobora gusa kuba bifitanye isano n’umuheto w’abagabo gusa, ahubwo binagaragaza ubwiza bw’umugore. Muri serie ya Alexis Mabille 2022 yumuhindo nimbeho, umuheto ugaragara ahantu hatandukanye kumyenda: ku bitugu byimyenda itabigenewe hamwe namakoti yikoti, kumpande yimyenda yimyenda no mukibuno cyaimyenda ya nimugoroba. Uwashushanyaga yakoresheje imyenda ya gaze na satine agakora umuheto mu myenda, naho umuheto wongeyeho umwuka wurukundo kuriimyambarire.

MING MA's 2022 serie yumuhindo nimbeho yiswe "Inzozi Zisubira muri Romance Nshya", ihumekwa na "New Romantic Cultural Movement" yagaragaye mu Bwongereza mu ntangiriro ya za 1980. Igishushanyo mbonera gisaba iby'umwuka kubuntu ubwacu. Hashingiwe ku muco gakondo w’iburayi, iki gishushanyo gihuza ubwiza bw’amayobera y’iburasirazuba, gihuza uburyo bwiza n’ubwiza butabogamye, kandi bufungura igice gishya hamwe n’ururimi rwimyambarire igezweho.