Muri iki gihe, benshiibirango by'imyendabisaba ibyemezo bitandukanye ku myenda n'inganda zikora imyenda. Iyi nyandiko igaragaza muri make ibyemezo bya GRS, GOTS, OCS, BCI, RDS, Bluesign, Oeko-tex imyenda ibigo bikomeye byibandaho vuba aha.
1. Icyemezo cya GRS
Amabwiriza mpuzamahanga yemewe na GRS yo gusana imyenda n'imyenda; GRS ni amabwiriza mpuzamahanga, y’ubushake, kandi yuzuye ku bicuruzwa areba ishyirwa mu bikorwa ry’ibicuruzwa byo gusubizwa mu rugo, kugenzura uburyo bwo kubika ibicuruzwa, ibikoresho byasubijwe mu rugo, inshingano ku mibereho myiza no kubungabunga ibidukikije, hamwe n’amategeko agenga imiti, yatangijwe na TextileExchange kandi yemejwe n’ikigo cy’abandi gitanga icyemezo.
Intego y’icyemezo cya GRS ni ukureba neza ko ibyavuzwe ku gicuruzwa kijyanye nacyo ari ukuri kandi ko ibicuruzwa byakozwe mu gihe cy’akazi keza kandi nta ngaruka mbi ku bidukikije n’ingaruka mbi ku bidukikije. Icyemezo cya GRS kigamije guhuza ibikoresho byagarujwe/byasubiwemo biri mu bicuruzwa (byarangiye n’ibyarangiye) kugira ngo byemezwe n’ikigo, kandi harebwe ibikorwa bifitanye isano n’inshingano ku mibereho myiza y’abaturage, ibidukikije n’ikoreshwa ry’imiti.
Gusaba icyemezo cya GRS bigomba kuba byujuje ibisabwa bitanu byo gukurikirana ibintu, kurengera ibidukikije, inshingano ku mibereho myiza, ikimenyetso cyo kuvugurura ibintu n'amahame rusange.
Uretse ibipimo by'ibikoresho fatizo, iri hame rinakubiyemo amahame ngenderwaho yo gutunganya ibidukikije. Rikubiyemo ibisabwa bikomeye mu gutunganya amazi yanduye no gukoresha imiti (nk'uko biteganywa n'Ihame Mpuzamahanga ry'Imyenda y'umwimerere (GOTS) ndetse na Oeko-Tex100). Ibintu by'inshingano ku mibereho myiza nabyo biri muri GRS, igamije kwemeza ubuzima bw'abakozi n'umutekano wabo, gushyigikira uburenganzira bw'abakozi ku murimo no kubahiriza amahame yashyizweho n'Umuryango Mpuzamahanga w'Umurimo (ILO).
Muri iki gihe, ibigo byinshi bikora ibikoresho bya polyester n'ipamba byasubiwemo, ibi bikaba bisaba abacuruza imyenda n'ubudodo gutanga ibyemezo bya GRS n'amakuru yerekeye ibyo bakora kugira ngo bakurikirane kandi bemeze ikirango.
2.Icyemezo cya GOTS
GOTS yemeje ko ikoranabuhanga mpuzamahanga ry’umwimerereamahame ngenderwaho y'imyenda; Amahame Mpuzamahanga yo Kwemeza Imyenda Ishingiye ku Bidukikije (GOTS) asobanurwa ahanini nk'ibisabwa kugira ngo imyenda imenyekane ko ikoreshwa mu buryo bw'umwimerere, harimo gusarura ibikoresho fatizo, gukora ibikoresho fatizo bifite inshingano ku bidukikije no ku mibereho myiza, no gushyiraho ibirango kugira ngo hamenyekane amakuru y'abaguzi ku bicuruzwa.
Iri hame rigena uburyo bwo gutunganya, gukora, gupakira, gushyira ibirango, gutumiza mu mahanga, kohereza no gukwirakwiza imyenda y’umwimerere. Ibicuruzwa bya nyuma bishobora kuba birimo, ariko ntibigarukira gusa kuri: ibicuruzwa bya fibre, ubudodo, imyenda, imyenda n’imyenda yo mu rugo, iri hame ryibanda gusa ku bisabwa by’ibanze.
Intego y'impamyabumenyi: imyenda ikozwe mu nsinga karemano z'umwimerere
Icyerekezo cy'impamyabumenyi: Imicungire y'umusaruro w'ibicuruzwa bya GOT, kurengera ibidukikije, inshingano ku mibereho myiza y'abaturage, ibintu bitatu
Ibisabwa ku bicuruzwa: Birimo 70% by'ibinyabutabire karemano, kuvanga ntibyemewe, birimo 10% by'ibinyabutabire bya siporo cyangwa byasubiwemo (ibicuruzwa bya siporo bishobora kuba birimo 25% by'ibinyabutabire bya siporo cyangwa byasubiwemo), nta binyabutabire byahinduwe mu buryo bwa genetiki.
Imyenda y’umwimerere nayo ni imwe mu mpamyabushobozi z’ingenzi ku byangombwa by’ibikoresho fatizo by’ibicuruzwa bikomeye, muri zo tugomba gutandukanya itandukaniro riri hagati ya GOTS na OCS, ibyo bikaba ari ibintu bitandukanye cyane ku bikoresho fatizo by’ibicuruzwa.
3. Icyemezo cya OCS
Amabwiriza agenga ibiribwa by’umwimerere yemejwe na OCS; Amabwiriza agenga ibiribwa by’umwimerere (OCS) ashobora gukoreshwa ku bicuruzwa byose bitari ibiribwa birimo ibintu by’umwimerere kuva kuri 5 kugeza ku 100 ku ijana. Aya mahame ashobora gukoreshwa mu kugenzura imiterere y’ibikoresho by’umwimerere mu bicuruzwa bya nyuma. Ashobora gukoreshwa mu gukurikirana ibiribwa by’umwimerere kuva aho biva bikagera ku bicuruzwa bya nyuma kandi inzira yemejwe n’ikigo cya gatatu cyizewe. Mu gihe cyo gusuzuma imiterere y’ibiribwa by’umwimerere mu bicuruzwa, amahame azaba asobanutse kandi ahamye. Aya mahame ashobora gukoreshwa nk'igikoresho cy’ubucuruzi hagati y’ibigo kugira ngo afashe ibigo kwemeza ko ibicuruzwa bigura cyangwa byishyura byujuje ibisabwa.
Intego yo kwemeza: ibikomoka ku bimera bitari ibiryo bikozwe mu bikoresho fatizo byemewe by’umwimerere.
Ubushobozi bwo kwemeza: Imicungire y'umusaruro w'ibicuruzwa bya OCS.
Ibisabwa ku bicuruzwa: Birimo ibirenga 5% by'ibikoresho fatizo byujuje ibisabwa byemewe n'amategeko mbonezamusaruro.
Ibisabwa na OCS ku bikoresho by’umwimerere biri hasi cyane ugereranyije na GOTS, bityo umukiriya usanzwe w’ikirango azasaba umucuruzi gutanga icyemezo cya GOTS aho gutanga icyemezo cya OCS.
4. Icyemezo cya BCI
Ishyirahamwe ryemewe na BCI ryo mu Busuwisi rishinzwe iterambere ry’ipamba nziza; Umuryango w’Ipamba Nziza (BCI), wanditswe mu 2009 ukaba ufite icyicaro gikuru i Genève mu Busuwisi, ni umuryango mpuzamahanga udaharanira inyungu ufite ibiro 4 bihagarariye mu Bushinwa, mu Buhinde, muri Pakisitani na Londres. Kuri ubu, ufite imiryango irenga 1.000 y’abanyamuryango hirya no hino ku isi, cyane cyane amasosiyete ahinga ipamba, amasosiyete y’imyenda y’ipamba n’ibicuruzwa bicuruza.
BCI ikorana n'abafatanyabikorwa benshi mu guteza imbere imishinga yo guhinga BetterCotton ku isi no koroshya urujya n'uruza rwa BetterCotton mu ruhererekane rw'ibicuruzwa, hashingiwe ku mahame agenga umusaruro w'ipamba yashyizweho na BCI. Intego nyamukuru ya BCI ni uguhindura umusaruro w'ipamba ku rwego rw'isi binyuze mu guteza imbere Umushinga w'Ipamba Nziza, bigatuma ipamba nziza iba ikintu gikuru. Mu 2020, umusaruro w'ipamba nziza uzagera kuri 30% by'umusaruro wose w'ipamba ku isi.
Amahame atandatu y'umusaruro wa BCI:
1. Kugabanya ingaruka mbi ku ngamba zo kurinda imyaka.
2. Gukoresha neza amazi no kuyabungabunga.
3. Ibande ku buzima bw'ubutaka.
4. Kurinda ahantu nyaburanga ho gutura.
5. Kwita no kurinda ubuziranenge bwa fibre.
6. Guteza imbere akazi keza.
Muri iki gihe, ibigo byinshi bisaba ko ipamba ry’ababicuruza riva muri BCI, kandi bifite urubuga rwabo rwo gukurikirana BCI kugira ngo ababicuruza bashobore kugura BCI nyayo, aho igiciro cya BCI kingana n’icy’ipamba isanzwe, ariko umutanga azajya asabwa amafaranga ajyanye nayo mu gihe asaba kandi agakoresha urubuga rwa BCI n’ubunyamuryango. Muri rusange, ikoreshwa rya BCCU rikurikiranwa binyuze kuri platform ya BCI (1BCCU = 1kg lint y’ipamba).
5. Icyemezo cya RDS
RDS ifite icyemezo cya Humane and Responsible down standard; RDS ResponsibleDownStandard (Responsibledown Standard). Humane and Responsible Down Standard ni gahunda yo gutanga icyemezo yakozwe na TheNorthFace ya VF Corporation ku bufatanye na Textile Exchange na Dutch ControlUnion Certifications, ikigo cy’impamyabumenyi gikorera ku ruhande rwa gatatu. Uyu mushinga watangijwe ku mugaragaro muri Mutarama 2014, icyemezo cya mbere gitangwa muri Kamena uwo mwaka. Mu gihe cyo gutegura gahunda yo gutanga icyemezo, uwatanze icyemezo yakoranye n’abatanga serivisi bakomeye AlliedFeather & Down na Downlite kugira ngo basesengure kandi barebe ko bujuje ibisabwa muri buri cyiciro cy’uruhererekane rw’ibicuruzwa bitangwa.
Ubwoya bw'inyoni z'ibihunyira, ibihunyira n'izindi nyoni mu nganda z'ibiribwa ni bumwe mu buryo bwiza kandi butanga umusaruro mwiza. Ikigo Humane Down Standard cyagenewe gusuzuma no gukurikirana aho ibicuruzwa byose bishingiye ku isoko bikomoka ku isoko bikomoka ku isoko, bigatuma habaho uruhererekane rw'ibikoresho kuva kuri gosling kugeza ku bicuruzwa bya nyuma. Icyemezo cya RDS gikubiyemo icyemezo cy'abatanga ibikoresho fatizo bya down na feather, ndetse kinakubiyemo icyemezo cy'inganda zikora down jacket.
6. Icyemezo cya Oeko-TEX
OEKO-TEX®Standard 100 yakozwe n'Ishyirahamwe Mpuzamahanga ryita ku Myuga Ishingiye ku Bidukikije (OEKO-TEX®Association) mu 1992 kugira ngo igerageze imiterere y'imyenda n'imyenda hakurikijwe ingaruka zayo ku buzima bw'abantu. OEKO-TEX®Standard 100 igaragaza ubwoko bw'ibintu biteje akaga bizwi bishobora kuba biri mu myenda n'imyenda. Ibintu bipimirwa birimo pH, formaldehyde, ibyuma biremereye, imiti yica udukoko/ibyatsi, phenol chlorine, phthalate, organotin, azo color, carcinogenic/allergies, OPP, PFOS, PFOA, chlorobenzene na chlorotoluene, polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, ibara ryihuse, volatile matter, impumuro nziza, nibindi, kandi ibicuruzwa bigabanyijemo ibyiciro bine hakurikijwe ikoreshwa rya nyuma: Icyiciro cya mbere ku bana bato, Icyiciro cya kabiri cyo gukora ku ruhu rutaziguye, Icyiciro cya gatatu cyo gukora ku ruhu rutaziguye n'Icyiciro cya kane cyo gukora ku ruhu rutaziguye n'Icyiciro cya kane cyo gukora ku mitako.
Muri iki gihe, Oeko-tex, nk'imwe mu mpamyabumenyi y'ibanze ku bidukikije ku nganda z'imyenda, muri rusange isaba ubufatanye n'abafite ikirango, ari na byo bisabwa byibuze ku nganda.
Gusoza
Siyinghonguruganda rw'imyendani inzobere mu nganda z'imideli kandi yabonye impamyabumenyi n'amahame menshi yo gufasha ubucuruzi bwawe kugira icyo bugeraho.
Niba ushaka ko imyenda yawe iba myiza kandi ijyanye n'ibidukikije, ntukarebe kure uretse Siyinghonguruganda rw'imyenda. Dufata inshingano ku iterambere ry'ubukungu n'imibereho myiza nk'ibintu by'ingenzi mu gutunganya imyambarire kugira ngo ubashe gukora imyenda igezweho nta kwangiza ibidukikije.Twandikireuyu munsi kugira ngo ubone amakuru arambuye ku buryo twagufasha kugera ku ntego zawe.
Igihe cyo kohereza ubutumwa: Werurwe-28-2024
