Kugeza ubu, benshiibirango by'imyendabisaba ibyemezo bitandukanye kumyenda ninganda zitanga imyenda. Uru rupapuro rwerekana muri make GRS, GOTS, OCS, BCI, RDS, Bluesign, Oeko-tex ibyemezo byimyenda ibirango byingenzi byibandaho vuba aha.
Icyemezo cya GRS
GRS yemejwe ku isi hose gutunganya imyenda n'imyenda; GRS ni igipimo cy’ibicuruzwa ku bushake, mpuzamahanga, kandi cyuzuye gikemura ibibazo by’abacuruzi batanga ibicuruzwa byo kubahiriza ibicuruzwa, urunigi rwo kugenzura ibicuruzwa, ibicuruzwa bitunganijwe neza, inshingano z’imibereho n’ibidukikije, hamwe n’ibibuza imiti, byatangijwe na TextileExchange kandi byemejwe n’icyemezo cy’abandi bantu. umubiri.
Intego yo gutanga ibyemezo bya GRS ni ukureba niba ibisabwa byatanzwe ku bicuruzwa bireba ari byo kandi ko ibicuruzwa byakozwe mu gihe cyiza kandi bikagira ingaruka nke ku bidukikije ndetse n’ingaruka z’imiti. Icyemezo cya GRS cyateguwe kugirango huzuzwe ibikoresho byagarutsweho / byongeye gukoreshwa bikubiye mu bicuruzwa (byarangiye ndetse na kimwe cya kabiri cyarangiye) kugira ngo bigenzurwe n’isosiyete, no kugenzura ibikorwa bifitanye isano n’inshingano z’imibereho, imikorere y’ibidukikije no gukoresha imiti.
Gusaba icyemezo cya GRS bigomba kuba byujuje ibisabwa bitanu byo gukurikiranwa, kurengera ibidukikije, inshingano z’imibereho, ibimenyetso bishya hamwe n’amahame rusange.
Usibye ibikoresho fatizo byihariye, iki gipimo gikubiyemo ibipimo byo gutunganya ibidukikije. Harimo ibisabwa byo gutunganya amazi mabi no gukoresha imiti (ukurikije Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) kimwe na Oeko-Tex100). Inshingano z’imibereho nazo ziri muri GRS, igamije guharanira ubuzima n’umutekano by’abakozi, gushyigikira uburenganzira bw’abakozi no kubahiriza amahame yashyizweho n’umuryango mpuzamahanga wita ku murimo (ILO).
Kugeza ubu, ibirango byinshi birimo gukora polyester ikoreshwa neza hamwe n’ibicuruzwa bitunganyirizwa mu ipamba, bisaba abatanga imyenda nudodo gutanga ibyemezo bya GRS hamwe namakuru yubucuruzi kugirango bakurikirane ibicuruzwa.
Icyemezo CYIZA
GOTS yemeza ibinyabuzima ku isiibipimo by'imyenda; Ibipimo ngenderwaho ku Isi (GOTS) bisobanurwa cyane cyane nk'ibisabwa kugira ngo imiterere y’imyenda ihagaze, harimo gusarura ibikoresho fatizo, umusaruro w’ibidukikije ndetse n’imibereho myiza y’abaturage, hamwe na label kugira ngo amakuru y’abaguzi yerekeye ibicuruzwa.
Ibipimo ngenderwaho bitanga gutunganya, gukora, gupakira, kuranga, gutumiza, kohereza no gukwirakwiza imyenda kama. Ibicuruzwa byanyuma birashobora kubamo, ariko ntibigarukira gusa: ibicuruzwa bya fibre, ubudodo, imyenda, imyenda nimyenda yo murugo, iki gipimo cyibanda gusa kubisabwa byateganijwe.
Ikintu cyemeza: imyenda ikomoka muri fibre naturel
Ingano yicyemezo: GOTs gucunga ibicuruzwa, kurengera ibidukikije, inshingano zimibereho ibintu bitatu
Ibicuruzwa bisabwa: Harimo fibre naturel 70%, kuvanga ntibyemewe, birimo fibre ntarengwa ya 10% ya sintetike cyangwa ikoreshwa neza (ibicuruzwa bya siporo birashobora kuba birimo 25% bya fibre synthique cyangwa yongeye gukoreshwa), nta fibre yahinduwe.
Imyenda mvaruganda nayo nimwe mubyemezo byingenzi byibanze byibikoresho bikenerwa mubirango bikomeye, muribyo tugomba gutandukanya itandukaniro riri hagati ya GOTS na OCS, ibyo bikaba ahanini bisabwa muburyo butandukanye bwibigize ibicuruzwa.
3. Icyemezo cya OC
OCS yemewe ibinyabuzima bisanzwe; Ibicuruzwa ngengabuzima (OCS) birashobora gukoreshwa mubicuruzwa byose bitari ibiribwa birimo 5% 100%. Ibipimo ngenderwaho birashobora gukoreshwa mugusuzuma ibintu kama mubicuruzwa byanyuma. Irashobora gukoreshwa mugushakisha ibikoresho fatizo kuva isoko kugeza kubicuruzwa byanyuma kandi inzira yemejwe numuryango wizewe wagatatu. Muburyo bwo gusuzuma byimazeyo ibyigenga kama yibicuruzwa, ibipimo bizaba mucyo kandi bihamye. Ibipimo ngenderwaho birashobora gukoreshwa nkigikoresho cyubucuruzi hagati yamasosiyete kugirango afashe ibigo kwemeza ko ibicuruzwa bagura cyangwa bishyura byujuje ibyo basabwa.
Intego yo gutanga ibyemezo: ibicuruzwa bitari ibiryo byakozwe mubikoresho fatizo byemewe.
Ingano yimpamyabumenyi: OCS gucunga ibicuruzwa.
Ibicuruzwa bisabwa: Harimo ibice birenga 5% byibikoresho byujuje ubuziranenge byemewe.
Ibisabwa bya OCS kubintu kama biri munsi cyane ya GOTS, kubwibyo abakiriya basanzwe bazakenera uwabitanze gutanga icyemezo cya GOTS kuruta icyemezo cya OCS.
4. Icyemezo cya BCI
BCI Yemejwe n’Ubusuwisi Ishyirahamwe ry’iterambere ry’ipamba; Umuryango mwiza w’ipamba (BCI), wanditswe mu 2009 kandi ufite icyicaro i Geneve mu Busuwisi, ni umuryango mpuzamahanga udaharanira inyungu ufite ibiro 4 bihagarariye mu Bushinwa, Ubuhinde, Pakisitani na London. Kugeza ubu, ifite imiryango irenga 1.000 y’abanyamuryango ku isi, cyane cyane ishami rishinzwe guhinga impamba, inganda z’imyenda n’ibicuruzwa.
BCI ikorana n’abafatanyabikorwa benshi kugirango bateze imbere imishinga yo guhinga nziza ya BetterCotton ku isi hose no koroshya urujya n'uruza rwa BetterCotton mu masoko yose, hashingiwe ku mahame yo gutanga impamba yateguwe na BCI. Intego nyamukuru ya BCI ni uguhindura umusaruro w ipamba kurwego rwisi binyuze mugutezimbere umushinga mwiza w ipamba, bigatuma ipamba nziza iba ibicuruzwa byingenzi. Muri 2020, umusaruro w'ipamba nziza uzagera kuri 30% by'umusaruro rusange w'ipamba ku isi.
BCI amahame atandatu yumusaruro:
1.Gabanya ingaruka mbi ku ngamba zo kurinda ibihingwa.
2.Gukoresha neza amazi no kubungabunga umutungo wamazi.
3.Wibande kubuzima bwubutaka.
4.Kurinda ahantu nyaburanga.
5.Kwita no kurinda ubuziranenge bwa fibre.
6.Guteza imbere umurimo mwiza.
Kugeza ubu, ibirango byinshi bisaba ipamba yabatanga ibicuruzwa biva muri BCI, kandi bifite urubuga rwabo rwo gukurikirana BCI kugirango barebe ko abatanga ibicuruzwa bashobora kugura BCI nyayo, aho igiciro cya BCI kimeze nkicy'ipamba isanzwe, ariko uyitanga azabigiramo uruhare amafaranga ahuye mugihe usaba kandi ukoresha urubuga rwa BCI nabanyamuryango. Muri rusange, imikoreshereze ya BCCU ikurikiranwa binyuze kuri platform ya BCI (1BCCU = 1kg ipamba).
5. Icyemezo cya RDS
RDS yemejwe na Humane kandi ishinzwe hasi; RDS Inshingano Yumudugudu (Igisubizo gisanzwe). Porogaramu ya Humane na Responsible Down Standard ni gahunda yo gutanga ibyemezo yateguwe na TheNorthFace ya VF Corporation ku bufatanye n’ivunjisha ry’imyenda hamwe n’Ubuholandi bwa ControlUnion Certificat, urwego rw’abashinzwe gutanga impamyabumenyi. Uyu mushinga watangijwe kumugaragaro muri Mutarama 2014 kandi icyemezo cya mbere cyatanzwe muri kamena uwo mwaka. Mugihe cyo guteza imbere gahunda yo gutanga ibyemezo, uwatanze ibyemezo yakoranye nabatanga isoko AlliedFeather & Down na Downlite kugirango basesengure kandi bagenzure niba byubahirizwa kuri buri cyiciro cyurwego rwo hasi.
Amababa ya za gasegereti, inkongoro nizindi nyoni mu nganda zibiribwa nimwe murwego rwiza kandi rukora neza ibikoresho byimyenda. Ikigereranyo cya Humane Down cyashizweho kugirango dusuzume kandi dukurikirane inkomoko y'ibicuruzwa byose biri hasi, bishyiraho urunigi rwo kurinda kuva gosling kugeza ku bicuruzwa byarangiye. Icyemezo cya RDS gikubiyemo icyemezo cyibikoresho fatizo hasi hamwe nabatanga amababa, kandi bikubiyemo no kwemeza inganda zitunganya ikoti.
6. Icyemezo cya Oeko-TEX
OEKO-TEX®Standard 100 yakozwe n’ishyirahamwe mpuzamahanga ry’imyenda y’ibidukikije (OEKO-TEX®Association) mu 1992 kugira ngo isuzume imiterere y’ibicuruzwa by’imyenda n’imyenda ukurikije ingaruka zabyo ku buzima bw’abantu. OEKO-TEX®Standard 100 yerekana ubwoko bwibintu bizwi bishobora guteza akaga imyenda ishobora kwambara. Ibintu bipimisha birimo pH, formaldehyde, ibyuma biremereye, udukoko twica udukoko / ibyatsi, chlorine fenol, phthalate, organotine, amarangi ya azo, kanseri yo mu bwoko bwa allergique, OPP, PFOS, PFOA, chlorobenzene na chlorotoluene, hydrocarbone ya polycyclic aromatic, ibintu byihuta, , etc.
Kugeza ubu, Oeko-tex, nkimwe mu byemezo by’ibanze by’ibidukikije ku nganda z’imyenda, muri rusange bisaba ubufatanye na ba nyir'ibicuruzwa, akaba ari byo bisabwa byibuze ku nganda.
Gupfunyika
Siyinghongurugandani umuyobozi mubikorwa byimyambarire kandi yabonye impamyabumenyi nyinshi nubuziranenge kugirango afashe ubucuruzi bwawe gutsinda.
Niba ushaka ko imyenda yawe itangiza ibidukikije kandi ikaba nziza, reba kure kuruta siyinghonguruganda. Dufite inshingano zirambye hamwe ninshingano mbonezamubano nkibyo dushyira imbere mubikorwa kugirango ubashe gukora neza imyenda yimyambarire utabangamiye ibidukikije.Twandikireuyumunsi kubindi bisobanuro byukuntu dushobora kugufasha kugera kuntego zawe.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Werurwe-28-2024
